1996 Eunos mk1 1.8 auto crank pulley removal

As I have the front end stripped off my MK1 for accident damage repair I thought I can do the timing belt kit with easier access. I have no idea when it was last done.
What is the best method to hold the crank pulley? this model does not have any holes in the pulley that I can make and use a locking/holding bar.
I don’t have an impact gun.
The oil filter looks very small, is that normal?
Cheers

If IIRC, from doing a few back in the day, auxiliary belt pulley is attached by 4 small bolts. Take that off and make up a locking tool to bolt into the same pulley bolt holes. That’s what I did. Or, in gear and footbrake on while breaker bar on pulley
Barrie

There are 4 x 6mm bolts but they are reccessed in about 30mm from the front of the crank pulley, no way they wont bend at that length if a locking tool is made.
Being an auto you cant put it into gear to lock it.
Maybe Park could be used but I worry that would break the gearbox if the pulley nut is mental tight.
When I helped sort an early 1.6 manual I made a 600 mm long locking tool out of 20mm thick square section, had to use a 2m length of scaffold tube on that just to crack the nut…insane.
I could use a locking tool on that as the crank pulley had a plate with slots close to the face. The locking tool also bent. Must have been some neanderthal who cranked it up.
Worried about the 1.8 auto after that experience

didn’t register with me about the auto. Scottishfiver on here may be your man. He runs auto boxes.
Barrie

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I’d like to help, but I’ve only ever replaced a whole engine but never worked on the OP’s situation myself. I’d not risk using P to lock the mill though.
Getting transmissions for these cars is virtually impossible and anyone who has one will invariably say Pick up Only. They won’t pallet them.
I know this of late given my own box will need dropped out to investigate an ATF leak right on top of the box, and I shopped around recently for a straight exchange.
Mission impossible. It’s even possible…I may have to do an auto to manual on my car if the box is goosed beyond repair…which would be a pity as were it not for the seal failure (?) it works as new.
Much as I hate to say…an engine transplant may be actually easier given the 1840cc Auto mills are fully interchangeable…pretty much plug and play. 2 hours out, 3 hours in but the manifold down pipes are unique to the Auto as the box is fatter.
Either that, or ( and I know this may sound stupid) remove the mill, bench it, and get better access to it that way.

Regarding the oil filter, yes, the standard filter is pretty small.

You can fit a larger alternative if you want the peace of mind of having more filter area and that’s what I usually do. A filter for the Mazda KL engine fits and is about half as tall again. So that’s a filter to fit a Mazda MX-6 or a Ford Probe 24v. (Both getting pretty rare old cars now. I imagine there must be newer cars which take a compatible filter but I don’t know which.)

Still stuck, no idea how to stop the crank pulley rotating.
Maybe remove the starter and jam a crowbar in? is there even room for that?
Maybe autos never have the timing belts changed?

Cheers

Same cambelt renewal as manual.

Yep, I know, just surprised there is no info for this job on an auto.
there is a tool :slight_smile: !!


they have a PDF that describes how to use, Ill make one of these.
Seems perfect, locks against the water pump after pulley is removed via 4 x 10mm bolts