So is that confirmed, if I went bilsteins from a sport - I should be going from 380 to 340 - which will be perfect in my mind … 
Mine was fitted with Bilsteins from new, and rode at 340 all round until STS “fixed” the rattling suspension. I think it was an option on the roadster sport, as I’ve seen others riding at 380.
On a Mustang (!) you replace the spring and damper with a "coil-over " kit - a spring with a damper built inside. I think the ride height is governed by the spring length, and the bounce rate by the damper - I think you may need shorter springs as well as harder shock absorbers if you want to lower yours. Check with someone who knows what they are talking about before parting with your hard earned?
NO!! you have it wrong. The standard shock absorbers on the mark 3, hard top or not, have the same shoulder height as the Bilstein’s . Its just the springs themselves that create the ride height. So if the car is suspended on the same springs it was manufactured with, again sport model or no sport model the ride height would be in the region of 380 font 380 rear. Give or take 10mm. Therefore, if you have 380mm at the front, you can assume that the rear would be very similar. MIDLIFE CRISIS, you have problems with your rear springs, they are either broken or been replaced with lowering springs.
Or the car had lowering springs all around as then somebody replaced the front springs with standard height ones
Midlife-crisis
What Sparks said is 100% correct.
Iceman
If you want to lower your car, you need to either fit some lowers springs to your existing dampers, are fit a set of adjustable coilovers, changing the dampers to Bilstein ones from a sport will not affect ride height.
Some confusion here! It went in to the tyre depot riding 340mm all round. New tyres and drop links all round, and the front now sits at 380.
If your tyre depot fitted new tyres and drop links why (if they did originally) loosen the shock bolts? It’s unnecessary to do this, they are just a straight swap over, admitted the fronts can be more of a pain but still no need to disturb the shock bolts.
So is it the shock bots, or the A member ones, or both to blame?
Just measured mine - it’s 400mm from the centre bolt … I’ll have to do some loosening of bolts/nuts and re-tightening while the wheel is on the ground or - can I jack the suspension to simulate the tire sitting on the ground at all?
Thanks
Ross
I’m still waiting for the mechanic to look at mine, so no answers yet. If you have a “sport” you probably already have Bilstein shock absorbers - look under the muck for a yellow and blue “Bilstein” sticker. Look at the ride height on MickAP’s red one in this thread . . . .
If it helps I just had my 06 NC lowered using the Eibach 30mm springs. Original ride height was 380 front + rear now 350 all round. Car is otherwise totally standard SE spec.
Also looking at 4 wheel alignment any recommendations in the Coventry /Warwickshire area?
Does it feel much more stiffer now? I’m not sure if I want to compromise my ride quality in exchange for some sleeker looks!
Thanks
I haven’t done many miles since but on the roads around here which vary from pretty good to quite broken the only difference I felt was that the cornering was flatter and the turn in a bit sharper. The ride was never very compliant but seemed to cope with the smaller road potholes quite well and the lowering springs don’t seem to have made it any worse. I understand that this modified ride height was supposed to be the original but had to be modified to meet certain UK and US Federal pedestrian impact regulations so it’s now how Mazda intended.
Also should have mentioned that this is an SE on standard suspension not a Sport on Bilsteins.
The saga continues . . . . the garage have had a proper look, and say the front suspension is riding high because the lower arm bushes are stuck on the shafts - the arms drop right down when the car is jacked up to change the wheels, and stick there. The “twisted bush syndrome” solution doesn’t work because it’s not the twisted bushes causing the problem, the shaft is corroded and stuck in the bush, so releasing the nuts on the ends doesn’t free it. As they can’t get them out, they suggest replacing the lower arms complete with bushes - £250 per side for parts, plus labour. Two questions, please: 1) is there a cheaper source for lower arms and nuts, 2) if I just keep driving it, is there any hope it will eventually sag back to the ride height it had before I put the new tyres on?
I can only suggest if you put up your location maybe others can point you in the direction of someone who knows these cars and can offer a more positive remedy.
Personally I take my car to Sheffield for any work I can’t perform myself, namely suspension and alignment. I won’t even go to my local garage who are very good and trustworthy, sort of leave it to the MX-5 specialists.
My location is Wisbech - PE14 7BT. Somewhere near would obviously be good, but failing that, where in Sheffield do you go?
Members speak highly of Thrussington garage in Leicestershire, maybe a not so local to you depends how far you are prepared to travel. http://thrussingtongarage.co.uk/
I go to Roddisons Shepcote lane, nr Meadowhall Sheffield, ask for Paul.
Both the above are MX-5 specialists but others may have suggestions more local to you.
Just a quick update, although - not too precise …
I performed the twisted bush fix and revised the tire pressure - visually now it’s looking more normal, however I didn’t get the chance to the check the actual height after the procedure.
For a reference before that it was on 400-405 at the front … and less at the back (perhaps around 380-385) now they look a bit more equal.
I’ve got a pic from before and will try to attach it to here:
