I’m replacing the OEM tensioner with an aftermarket Kavo, and I’m really struggling to get the new or old belt on. It feels as if I need another cm or two in order to be near on sliding the belt. It feels like the tensioner is bottoming out a lot sooner than the OEM. I tried on the tensioner side, roller pulley, water pump, crank pulley, it’s just not enough. Yet when I installed the old tensioner, it went on without a sweat. The seller recommended that I put the car in gear, and rock it back and forth so that the crank moves enough for me to walk the belt on the crank pulley. Is that a thing?
It is the same principal that tyre fitters use to put a tyre onto a rim.
It makes a great difference if you can have someone else on a spanner to hold the tensioner full against the spring so you can get both hands on the belt. I recently replaced mine with a Ridex tensioner and it did need a good deal of grunt to slip the belt over. ISTR I found sliding it on at the crankshaft pulley was easiest.
Replacing the belt, tensioner and idler made a great difference to the under-bonnet noise on my 90,000 mile NC1 - really noticeable when driving as well. I’d recommend changing these components to anyone with an engine that’s done a fair few miles.
Did you manage to get it on?
Noticeable difference?
I think my old tensioner still had some juice left, but I’ve basically cut the stopper on the new tensioner and it went in fine. You couldn’t walk it as some suggested it kept slipping off. If it goes I’ll be buying an OEM one. No difference if I’m honest.