Can I just leave my MX-5 sitting outside

Actually, I had a garage (brand new 2 car space) before that, where the cars rusted, long before the other garage.

Car was welded in 2017, Present house was purchased in 2017. Car was at another location 2009 to 2017. But thanks for your deep interest in my previous postings.



1 Like

Had the same experience with condensation on the inside of the roof need to wipe it every time as the water gets o the seats…only happened this year.
I got a cover suggested by other members for my nc and if u take off the aerial (unscew it )then the cover is less likely to fly off
Where should i get the underside treated i.e. Waxoyl beat?..i am in the Uxbridge area?

My 97 1.8 NA has lived outside for the last 14 years. Garage is full of motorcycles. I used to put a thin cover on but found it didn’t prevent condensation inside the roof.

Now it lives under a carport (since last July) , so I don’t have to clear leaves out of nooks and crannies so often.

Thanks for all the answers - from fully garaged to left outside in the elements and everything in between.

The half-cover does sound like a decent compromise between convenience and protection…

1 Like

Asking about undersealing will get you dozens of opinions!

Waxoyled mine using these guys and am happy with it, though I don’t plan on driving the car when it’s raining or snowing (though I was told this would be fine after the waxoyl):

ps I am in no way affiliated, just saying they seem to have done a good job. Others swear by Dynitrol. And some say actually don’t do it at all…go figure.

1 Like

My '91 V-spec 1.6 has been kept on the road outside since I imported it in 2002…it’s due for its 5th hood now, and I’ve only recently bought a “shower-cap” type hood cover since the climate started to change in anger. Although it needs a respray due to fading, there are no signs of rust externally, but a squint inside the sills indicates that it’s probably only a matter of time, despite my having waxoyled them when I took delivery. The underside still has all the black stuff that was on it when it arrived, although the suspension components now have surface rust.
Just shove a length of curtain wire down the rear drain pipes once a week and you should be fine.

Most reliable car I’ve ever owned…and growing old gracefully, as am I !

T/pete

These half covers all seem fine but, what do you do about bird droppings on your paintwork. I found out to my cost that a birds droppings eat into you paint work. I use a full cover for my Mk1 whenever it is left outside during the day when I am working in my garage. Every night it is put into the garage as it has to be for insurance reasons, but I would anyway just to keep it dry. I don’t use it very much now anyway so it will up for sale in the Spring.

A vote for Dinitrol over Waxoyl here. Before I migrated to Mazda I spent decades wrestling with classic Land Rovers. Cavity wax treatment for non-galvanised chassis and bulkheads was basically essential. The received wisdom was that Dinitrol was much superior because it would move by capillary action into all the seams whereas Waxoyl just sat on the surface. My 2.5 has just been fully rustproofed and Dinotrol was used.

My NBFL sits out in the weather all year round. I’m currently having it ceramic coated for extra protection, although that won’t have much impact on internal corrosion, obs.

1 Like

Just for balance, if anyone decides to use Waxoil then just dilute it with white spirit and it will also ‘move by capillary action into all the seams’.
Any doubters as to its effectiveness are more than welcome to inspect our 30 year old Mini.
:heart:

1 Like

Yep, or may be a case of having a professional outfit apply it. I’ve heard elsewhere on this forum that you should spend no less than £500 on whatever treatment you choose, since anything less probably involves shortcuts…

I have a 1990 Mk1 which lives out in all wheathers and has survived so far!

I bought my Mk2.5 just before Christmas and the first thing I bought for it was a breathable car cover from Halfords. I did have a slight issue where the front of the cover blew off in some heavy wind but after tightening the straps it’s been fine since.

I’ve been taking the cover off when the rare dry spell appears but noticed that the last time I did it I had the same issue as a user above where the inside of the roof lining had developed white mould and saw a few drips on the seats. A few antibacterial wipes later and all was clean again.

I’m hoping to get the cover off again tomorrow and see what the situation is and put a disposable dehumidifier inside to see if that makes any difference while it’s standing still.

It’s pretty clean as it is but I’m looking forward to some more suitable weather so I can get out there and give it a thorough going over.

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.