I’ve been reading about how to fix a clutch switch but i need some more info. How do i know its busted in the first place? My understanding is that with the clutch depressed the ecu will contine to inject fuel on the overrun, if the clutch is released then no fuel is injected. What if the switch were to fail so that the ecu constantly thinks the clutch is depressed? Every time i lift off the throttle fuel will contine to be injected. What tests can I carry out with my multimeter? One also slightly dumb question - I cant even find the clutch switch can someone give me a pointer?
Many Thanks
Al
I just found the switch test in the old forum. I’ve carried that out and everything passed so that rules that out. I had to use an LED to do it though as the fan just wouldn’t work.
The switch plunger should spring out by about 1.5cm or so - on both my cars it was still slightly springy but not enough to actually activate as the spring had broken into a whole load of pieces (5 pieces on the older car). The plunger would only spring out by about 0.5cm. Oddly the engine idle would still respond to the clutch being depressed even with the broken switch, so I’m not sure that whatever test you did checks it properly - you might be best to remove it and check inside the switch, which is very easy to do.
The switch is fitted to a metal bracket right at the top of the clutch pedal, under the dashboard. It’s very obvious - a small metal box about an inch sqaure with a plug on one side and metal thread and plastic plunger screwed through the bracket.
To remove the switch you just press the clutch pedal to get it out of the way and then undo the switch using the chromed nut with a big spanner - make sure you turn the chrome nut on the switch-side as the black nut on the other side is welded to the bracket. Note exactly where the nut is on the thread so you can replace the switch to the same position. Remove the switch, put it in a vice upside-down and prise the little tabs open with a smaller screwdriver. Remove the base plate and pull the plunger apart and the bits of spring should drop out. Insert the spring from a ballpoint pen (make sure it fits over the little point at the base of the plunger) and rebuild it.
The throttle to idle behavior of mine improved no end with the repaired switch, took about 1/2 hour. The only awkward bit is trying to see the thing when upside down in the footwell.