Compression Test - Impending Doom, Options/Advice?

Hi chaps, back again. My local engine shop is now back open and I’m needing to buy the head set so I can pass over parts such as camshaft seals and valve stem seals. On MX5Parts there seems to be just one set containing the head gasket and other bits n bobs under the name Victor Reinz. Just wondering if anyone recommends me using this aftermarket set?
I need to do some cost calcs too, as to find best value for money in terms of getting all the parts and different gaskets etc. More expensive than first thought, but it’s gotta be done!

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Reinz are Mahle (of top dog piston fame and much more)… or the other way round.
They seem highly regarded. I’ve had one of their head gaskets on my rebuilt mill…just because the garage actually had one. I wanted to go OEM as I’m a bit OCD ( blind?) that way, but 5 years and many naughty limiter visits…it’s all good.

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Thanks for the speedy reply. Was hoping to go for OEM only, but getting a set like this seems good value for money, and if they’re highly rated then that’s the main thing.

Aye James…except it’s all cheaper elsewhere.
Mx5 Parts are OK, very reliable & trusted, just expensive for a lot of stuff, but decently priced as well for a lot of bits & pieces…like SS Zorsts etc.
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/search?keyword=Head+Gasket

I’ll bear that in mind, thanks. I’m going to get the Reinz one off MX5Parts, as it looks best value for money. Will need to price up everything else I need though, it’s a bit of a palaver! I saw a complete gasket set, which saves seeking out each one separately, but it was £250! Way more than buying separately surely, and bearing in mind the thermostat comes with a gasket, the genuine Mazda waterpump doesnt need one etc…

Whilst having a look at the bores I noticed the horizontal marks in the third bore (same cylinder where the valve seats were dodgy) There is a slightly rough feel around the middle, possible corrosion? But not enough to really snag a finger nail… Any ideas what may have caused it, and whether it’ll be alright to leave as is? Cheers in advance, I appreciate this help as I’d be a bit lost without it at some points!

As you have discovered another problem in the cylinder you had problems with…
I can see the marks better in your previous pictures.
It might actually be nothing to worry about of course.
IF it was me, I would have the cylinders Honed/Refurbished.
Probably new rings too.
Pistons hopefully will be fine…
Also what ever else a good engine shop advise.
Seriously, it’s false economy just to do a little bit of the job.
You can take it to a good place or indeed show them the pictures they will advise.
Sometimes, you can get away without a lot of expense.
Having gone this far, you have nothing to loose by asking.
Not only that, it probably would not take many more hours to get the whole engine out now.
Personally if you put it back together now you might not have solved your original problem 100%.
The way I see it you have 4 choices.

  1. Put it back and risk it. (But then you would ALWAYS be wondering what might go wrong, maybe nothing).
  2. Rebuild the engine properly (Depending how much you love your car really and obviously funds).
  3. Get a replacement/reconditioned exchange engine.
  4. Get a second hand engine from the many sources, (but that can have it’s draw backs too).

Hopefully another member can advise a good engine shop around the area you live.
“Impending Doom” always turns to a Positive in the end! :wink:
Thanks for sharing and hope you get it sorted and come up with a satisfactory solution for your good self. :+1:

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Sorry, the engine shop that did your head is obviously your best bet now. :+1:

Thank you for the reply, Scarletpimpernel, a good amount of advice and second opinions there which I appreciate. As much as I hoped for another type of response, I fear I always knew that there was a high chance of the work needing to be done, or sourcing a replacement of some sort. I’ll speak to the engine shop tomorrow (haven’t actually taken the head there yet, luckily) and see whether they can take a look, or just advise/quote by looking at the pictures then go from there. It seems to look better in person, but I’m nowhere near qualified to have an opinion!

I imagine the work would be more than I’d be willing to pay, when you think about the extra bits that you may as well replace whilst you’re there, but I’ll keep you updated. Thanks again.

No problem and you are welcome.
EVERYONE has an opinion and at the end of the day it was your good self that spotted all the problems in the first place. :+1:
Hopefully solved in due course.
Positive waves “Moriarty” :wink:

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James, you have to ask yourself what is your end goal.
If it is to get back in your car again and go driving or if you want the additional satisfaction of saying you have rebuilt your engine. (Which is not to be underestimated) If it is the latter, then absolutely you need to sort the bottom end out, but in that you will see the £ rack up. If you do it yourself you will again get a lot of satisfaction but will also need to buy tools or pay someone to do it. Take care as well that the condition of the rest of the car is worth the money you will pay on the “new” engine.
If the goal is just to get the car driving again there are plenty or engines out there that are in good condition that will cost you far less than the money you are going to spend on a gasket set. You are in a position now that you are most of the way to removing the block anyway.

Thanks for the advice Nick. The engine guy came and had a look today, and although the general consensus is that it’s not too bad, putting that time, effort and money in almost isn’t worth it with the uncertainty around the bottom end. I’m pretty set on a second hand engine and keeping my fingers crossed. If that engine goes wrong, then maybe I’ll consider spending the money to re-condition mine.

Does anybody know of any reputable sources of 1.8 NA engines? I’ve seen a few around on Facebook and various places, but looking for other considerations. Cheers guys.

Hi again, I’m back with some news on my engine situation, as I don’t like to leave a thread hanging! Nothing worse than reading through posts to never find an end result. Spoiler alert, still not quite at an end result…

Car is 1993 Eunos Roadster 1.8.
Well, after much time waiting for an engine to come up, I found one online and bought jt, along with new bits and bobs. Went down the usual route such as new clutch, bearings, seals etc. Managed to get the old engine out, and new engine in last weekend, with me spending this week’s cold evenings connecting everything up.
However, I tried to start it for the first time this evening but encountered an issue. The engine cranks and turns over, but only for a second before cutting out. I then need to wait a few seconds before it will turn over again, just to cut out.
The fuel pump seems to be working, as petrol shoots out of the fuel lines upon cranking. Not sure where to look now, as grounds and connections all seem to be in place. One thing worth mentioning is that the new engine (with intake manifold) is from a '97 1.8, and has a different manifold to mine. This is the one with the EGR valve and an extra vacuum line or two. I’ve not blocked off the egr pipe yet, but it is just open from the exhaust end. Obviously have no plug on my existing wiring loom, and not at all sure if this manifold with the different vacuum lines could be to blame? If not, any ideas? Immobiliser?

Thanks for any help, James.

When you say cranks and turns over, do you mean that it fires and runs for a second or only turns over on the starter motor for a second?

It actually fires up.

Are you using the original coil packs? They changed from 4 wire to 3 wire at around 1993. Fitting the wrong type give the symptoms you describe. It’s not got a massive air leak into the intake manifold has it? Do a fault code check, this may help.

I’m using the coil pack which came with the '97 engine, with my original wiring loom. So could potentially be the issue. I’ll swap them over and try it out later. Will also do a fault code check as well, and will report back in due time. Thanks for the help.

I’d be interested to know how many pins are on the low tension side of each one.

As you said, Robbie, three pins on the newer coil pack, and four on the older. I switched them over, and alas! It runs! A bit lumpy, as can be expected from it not being run for ages, moisture in the exhaust system etc. The temp. did go over half way, but that was with the rad cap off as I’m trying to make sure there’s not air in the system. Going to run it for a bit now, and keep my eye on everything.
I also took out the A/C system, so I’ll link out everything I need to for that as well.

Thanks all for the help, and cheers Robbie for highlighting that issue. Really appreciate the help.

Thanks for the feedback. Interestingly, it was about 15 years ago that I came across that phenomenon. Someone else had the same symptoms as you, bought on about by different circumstances but they had ended up replacing the PCM to try and fix it, which it didn’t the the job came to me to look at. I believe that I still have the old PCM and brand new wrongly replaced coil pack in my garage.

IIRC, the coil pack had failed initially and by replacing it with the wrong one they had removed the initial fault but induced a new one in the process.