I’ve recently (<1 month) had my 1990 Mk1 Eunos (Imported) serviced and found out that my Crank Pulley isn’t “wearing true”. Is this the sort of thing that can be easily fixed (not by me, but by a mechanic friend of mine who will be bribed with tea and biscuits). I would’ve had it done at the garage but had just shelled out to have the brakes completely replaced. They recommended that I get rid of it before I need an engine replacement, but I’m sure that there’s a better way.
Also, and I don’t know if this is a related symptom, but I was driving to work this morning and noticed a distinct lack of acceleration, pulling away in first felt like I was in third (and yes, I did check to make sure I wasn’t being a muppet) and the engine would cut out every time I dropped the clutch when pulling up to the junction. Is this something related to the crank pulley, or have I discovered yet another problem with my beloved 5?
I’m in sunny Bedfordshire so if anyone can recommend anyone who can help (after payday!) or even decent scrappy’s where I can get (gulp) a replacement engine if it’s come to that I would be very gratefull
This is the classic wearing of the crankshaft key / slot that afflicts pre 1992 shortnose crankshafts. The crank pulley bolt loosens due to being badly designed and allows the key in the crankshaft to wear away at the slot that’s supposed to hold it in the right position. As the slot gets larger the pulley can wobble and the timing becomes incorrect (timing becomes retarded I think?) as the crank to camshaft alignment is lost. The lack of power is down to this change in the timing.
Basically it seems to mean that either 1. you fit a new long-nose crankshaft (replaced the short-nose in pre-92 engines to try and sort this problem) and keep an eye on it future, replacing the crank bolt at every service, 2. you fit a new (92+) engine that has the better design of crank (big-nose crank) and never have to worry about it again, or 3. you bodge it with liquid metal to repair the worn crankshaft gap and see what happens.
Someone has said you can fit the post-92 large-nose crank to the earlier engine block so long as you also swap the oil pump and few other small parts - no idea if that’s correct though.
Lots of info in the tech faq. Unless you have lots of cash and time, re building the engine with a new crank is a real no no. There’s a guy in Kent who does a good service, but I’m a bit out of touch with your local area. The fix is a good one, I know of a number of cars still going, happily on using the Loctite fix, you just need to find someone to do it [it’s in the faq]
That’s what I was hoping to hear, if a cheap fix will do thats good enough for me! I’m getting some quotes from a mates boyfriend so I’ll let everyone know if mines another car that will go on happily crosses fingers
Well, I can’t believe it’s taken so long, but I finally have my car back on the road! I did eventually go for the new engine option, which (with some other work that needed doing) cost just over a grand, but the difference is much more noticeable, it’s so smooth, will get up to cough 70 without complaining anymore and feels so much more alive! I actually got the car back 2 weeks ago, and’ve been too busy driving around with the roof down grinning like a Cheshire Cat to let everyone know what’s been going on.
A heartfelt tip of the hat must go to the following for all their help
Mike and Rob (AKA Roadster Robbie) at EMG Cambridge for all their help, and for recommending a good source of parts
The Staff of Mr Engine (www.mrengine.net) (I’m not affiliated, just some word-of mouth recommendations)
The staff at Autolink (www.boundville.com) again, no affiliation, just word of mouth as they’ve helped me out
Look out for the happy looking guy in the red Eunos ragging around Befordshire this summer thanks to these guys!
