DIY NC service

I’m nearer to 60 than 50 and have always had someone else do the oily bits on cars for me. Not because I’m technically illiterate, but because of time and effort with a myriad of other things to do, and not having the time to learn. As I approach retirement, things are a little different!

So, I’d really like to start doing bits and pieces myself. Oil change, brake pads, general service items, that sort of thing. What would your advice be for a grey haired novice? Is the NC reasonable for learning on? Is a Haynes manual a good place to start? Or should I keep leaving it to Simon in the local garage up the road?! I’d also like to know what’s actually being done and what’s gone in for peace of mind and longevity.

And what about tools? Reasonable socket set, torque wrench, trolley jack, axel stands? What do you think?

The first edition one specific to the NC is hard to read with very poor illustrations and riddled with mistakes and omissions. It is not anywhere near up to their former standard. Anyone who wants my copy can have it!

Save your money and look for the on-line alternatives. The links tend to come and go a bit, but the info is out there and it is much closer to the manufacturer’s service data and a lot easier to read and understand.

TBH the oil change is easy, changing the filter on the NC isn’t. It’s in the most awkward of places, I’m 67 and will carry on doing my own stuff including that filter but I never look upon it with glee.
That out of the way everything else is easy enough if you have basic tools, a trolley jack and axle stands. Depends how far you want to take this, plenty of help on this very forum just ask.:+1:

Just buy them when you need them. But buy decent tools each time.

However the NC is pretty much reliable mechanically, and I’m very rarely using any tools on it!

I have the same set of tools I’ve accumulated over the last fifty years.
sockets, rings, open ended, all in imperial and metric and full range of sizes, eg 6mm to 24mm in metric,
each kind and size of screwdriver Torx, Allen, JIS, Posi, Phillips, flat,
punches, drills, taps, dies
assorted Petersen (now Irwin and less good) Visegrips (NOT finger-breaking “Mole” grips - AVOID these)
exceedingly ancient big torque wrench, still probably near enough accurate
a standard plumbers torch can work wonders in freeing off crankshaft bolts (Astra, Vextra cambelt changes)
with help from a builders club-hammer
Assorted ball-joint splitters, always seem to need a different one…

My only recent additions in the seven years since buying the NC have been
a rear-brake cylinder winder that came with some free plastic trim tools (both useful),
a small Halford’s Professional torque wrench,
an assortment of drive extensions, Halford’s Pro again
a set of ratchet rings bought for something else but were useful for awkward spots,
and a small Bosch impact driver also acquired for another job but makes very short work of rusty nuts without any great force.
Some fresh Loctite Medium Threadseal (not the permanent locking stuff) and it stops the threads from rusting

But then everyone will have a different selection, mainly through circumstance. Hence only buy when you need it!

I’ve got most sizes of sockets/spanners but found the only one missing I needed was a 15mm hex socket :open_mouth:
In 2 minutes my neighbour provided said socket, he’s got most tools. Except when he borrowed my caliper rewind tool last year, someone hadn’t returned his when he looked for it, no it wasn’t me😁

Also search on YouTube for mx-5 NC DIY maintenance videos, it’s a mine of information, but always watch a few as some are better than others, caveat to check the data yourself.
Flyin Miata videos are good as are lights up lights down the MX-5 restorer.

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Post your location, I would be more than happy to help if you live locally.
I’m guessing many members would also help.
FOC, i don’t help for reward.

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That’s very kind, although N Devon always seems miles from everyone!!

Sounds like a nice run out Dave and a free holiday :+1:t3::+1:t3::+1:t3::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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i just changed the all the oils in mine - been playing about with cars&bikes all my life. took about 2hours

there is plenty of info around nowadays - youtube, forums, service manuals - lots of people willing to help

biggest issue is getting under the car. it is possible off a ramp at the front and axle stands at the rear. but the space is pretty limited and you need to be generally fit enough.

If you have to buy ramps/jacks/tools/etc it would surely be more efficient leaving it to Simon. You would only do this because you WANT to do it, and in that case, buy as you go along. But, i would say the NC is a decent starting car. Parts seem reasonably cheap and easy to get.

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Tempting Geoff, but i’ve a f/o/s caliper arriving sometime tomorrow afternoon for the red un and parts coming from China any day now for the white un, also two more spark plugs and possibly (if they fall to bits like the last one) two coil packs for Alex’s Golf.
A bit busy at the mo.

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If you are a member of the MX5 Owners Club you can access the Downloads section of this website. Detailed guides on there on how to change oils and brake pads.

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The NC is a pretty old fashioned car. Pretty easy to work on.

Things are easy to get to, there’s generally a bit of space, and there’s a distinct lack of Torx screws.

Once you have both undertrays off [4x10mm bolts, 5x12mm bolts], the oil filter is easy

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Did oil and filter yesterday. Jacked up the front on the cross member and axle stands at the front jacking points. Just removed the rear most cover .the one with the little joke door for oil filter access. N/S front wheel off is good for filter access. Drain plug easy with 17mm socket on 1/2" ratchet. Filter was on very tight but there is clearance to get a three leg geared wrench in there on 1/2" ratchet which was the only way to get sufficient leverage.

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I am 70 and do my own maintenance but then I always have since a teenager. A bt scared to touch the MX5 at first but in reality all the scare stories were damp squibs to me!
I have printed off the service schedule from this site and tick it off as I do things but if its going ok its just the usual fluids and pads to do.
The oil filter is not the demon people make it out to be. I bought some Silverline oil filter pliers off Amazon and these work a treat to loosen it. Then I unscrew it into a plastic bag to catch it and all the oil. Clean and simple.
An old 5l oil container with a hole cut out is ideal to drain into. Use new washers, plenty on eBay.
Headlamp bulbs are easy too if you go up from under. Bumper off my ■■■■!
Transmission oils no probs to drain and to refil I bought an Silverline Outboard engine oil pimp for about £8 .It pumped new oil in with no bother!

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So you are saying you can do headlamp bulbs with the bumper in place from beneath? That’s good to know.

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