No CANBUS ON NC.
However with any generic LED lamp, if it claims to work with CANBUS, then heat might be problem, and it sometimes does not have much correspondence to the actual light output.
An example with T10 W5W wedge bulbs, as used in NC front sidelight.
I have a collection of T10 white bulbs, mostly 4000K, none fitted in the NC for various reasons. Today as a test I connected them all at the same time to see how the brightness varied between them. I also measured the temperature of each after ten minutes or so, and again at fifteen to see if any further rise. At various times in the past I also measured the current each one took from my bench supply set at 13V.
Here is a picture summarising the test, top half lit, bottom half unlit so you can see the bulbs hooked up.
The LED at 3.1W has CANBUS cheat resistors built in. On a previous test a couple of years ago the Sodial got so hot after half an hour one of the two 220 Ohm shunt resistors unsoldered itself and dropped off, hence the least efficient lamp (30 lm) now only running at 75C above ambient today (20C) for an actual 2.4W.
The Katur at 2.6W is putting all that into the LEDs, but it is much too bright for a sidelight, great for occasional duty inside the car as an interior or boot light though, and it might pass a CANBUS test.
The other LEDs will fail a CANBUS test. Some of the six LEDs need correct polarity to light.
My latest lamp under test is a Noobibaba from China via Az Vine today, and it is surprisingly good, with the regulation 50 lm output from only 0.25W of power (nominal 0.5W). It also aims forwards, perfect for the front sidelight diffuser lens on the NC.
The most efficient bulbs are the Katur (170 lm/W and ten times too bright) and the Noobibaba (200 lm/W).