Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere but I can’t find it.
The doors on my Mk1 have what I can only describe as a hollow tin sound when being closed. They fit fine and securely and don’t rattle when being driven, it’s just the noise they make on closing which reminds me of my Ser 2A Landrover back in the 70s.
Research has shown that you can buy self-adhesive sound deadening pads which I have ordered, but I can find little info regarding as to where and how many need to be fitted into the door.
Anyone done this, any help would be much appreciated?
Dave
Hi there I am in the middle of doing this to my campervan, after some research I decided to use Noico sound deadening self adhesive pads and some Noico Red 8mm sound insulation in certain areas (I’m doing other areas as well as doors) the sound deadening mat will eliminate the horrible metallic ring it has done on my campervan doors which are notorious for noise they make (1985 T25) and replaced it with a solid thwack and no ressonance, the 8mm sound insulation stops external sound and I’m using it on the floor pan, seat boxes and wheel arch areas on top of the sound deadening. Measure the door front to back top to bottom, not the glass of course X 2 which will give you your requirement, I think Noico sell it in 1.7 metre square packs which I think would easily do both doors and some, of course you could easily double it up in some areas. Hop that’s of some help.
Regards Dave
Hi Dave and thanks for your thoughts and experience.
I have ordered some 30x40 cm self adhesive pads which are 2.5mm rubber encased in aluminium foil. I am unsure if I need to cover the entire door as I have read that it is not necessary, perhaps they will come with some instruction.
Dave
Yes in deed I have seen reports of 40% coverage being sufficient, I went for as near 100% as possible as the cabin of a T25 is like being in a heavy metal bass drum ! You could try working from the centre outwards trying it as you go that’s what I did and it was surprising the difference when tapping the area with deadening behind it and areas without therefore I recon the more the better. I have also used flashing tape on the sliding door and it does make a difference but I’m not sure it’s as good the purpose made stuff, that said I only did a small area so it’s inconclusive. I would appreciate it if you could let me know how you get on.
Regards Dave
There is a lot of info if you Google it.
With the deadening mats, what you are doing is stopping resonant frequencies allowing the panel to vibrate. If you cover the entire panel evenly you change the frequency that it will vibrate at, but it will still vibrate. The thing to do is put it on in patches, preferably with curved edges, and this stops any vibration as the mass loaded bits want to vibrate at a different frequency to the untouched metal and they stop each other. You can also double up layers to thicken in places.
Think of a guitar string, if you mass load the whole length you just make it a lower frequency string. Put a finger against the string exactly half way along and it will vibrate at a higher frequency (harmonics). Now touch at two or three random places on the string and it will not vibrate at all.
Coverage of strategically positioned pieces covering 35% of the surface is more effective than 100% coverage.
It is difficult to get it wrong by putting too much on, just costs you more and adds weight.
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Agreed, nicely summed up.
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Thanks Dave, working from the middle sounds a sound idea (sorry) can then check as each pad is added.
This is not an urgent job as having done a lot of other work recently and only just taken the HT off I would like to enjoy the car for a bit.
I will post back results when I have completed one side.
Dave
Thanks McTrucky for such a detailed response, so ‘less is more’!
The patches I have purchase are rectangular so am I looking to round the corners or curve the sides?
I will further my studies on Google before I make a start.
Thanks again.
Dave
Google will give you a lot of info, not all of it true…
Household scissors are fine to cut it.
If doing a whole flattish panel, I would cut an A4 sheet into three with two S shaped cuts and stick it on with a couple of inches between the pieces.
I would also cut the corners off and find somewhere to stick the off cuts.
You have got to visualise a drum skin, or the surface of a pond, and think how the ripples (vibrations) cross the surface and reflect of the edges. Tap the metal as you go and if it ‘rings’ it will resonate, if it is dead, job done.
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Good summation Mr trucky and thought through with science unlike mine, in light of it I think I may do my floor slightly different by placing narrow strips in the strengthening indents and THEN covering the whole area also may apply some small patches onto the flat areas I have already covered. I also agree it would be hard to get it wrong by doing 100% but a bit of guitar string thinking won’t be wasted. Dave