Nice follow up. Thanks for the update.
Hi!
How hard was it to get to the motor? Do you maybe have a quick guide or os it straightforward once the actuator is out of the car?
Hi,
Was this the driver or passenger motor (RHS or LHS).
Thanks
Hey! I am planning on doing exactly this. Iāve got some video and photos of the process. Its a bit annoying, but certainly not a super hard job.
The actuator clam shell isnāt glued, it will easily split in half.
Then the motor is a push fit.
The hardest part is getting the actuator back in the door to be honest, thereās an anti theft plate covering the door lock, this is an absolute pig to get back on, it might take 3 or 4 attempts. If itās not on correctly, it fouls the door handle, so check the handle still works before you put the door cards back on.
I did some damage to the actuator housing when prying them apart, what was your technique?
Sweet thanks, I ordered the white geared one as my drivers actuator is acting up when the car sits in the sun for a little while. Didnāt want to pull it apart without knowing if I had the right motor on hand.
I donāt recall any issues if Iām being honest, pretty sure I just put a screwdriver between the two halves and it came open.
Just got my new actuator motor in over the weekend. Can confirm the rhs door has a white geared motor. Job was pretty simple and getting the clips and rods back in Is pretty straight forward if you slide the clips out from the rod and then slide back on when replacing.
Would recommend to ensure the actuator casing is glued together properly when reinstalling . The first time I fitted it I used a more flexible glue which wasnāt strong enough and the casing opened up and locked my driver door shut since the gear wasnāt contacting properly. Use some super glue and clamped the case down and let it dry for a while and add a couple zip ties around the casing for extra insurance so it doesnāt leave you locked out! Luckily my passenger door was fine so could get in from there and fix things up.
My driverās door lock failed recently (the passengerās side been dead for many years) and Iād like to get the actuator out and confirm it is dead first before ordering a new one (a new oem part costs around a 160e here in the Netherlands). I had washed the car throughly on the same day the door lock died and Iām worried some water leaked in and burnt a controller somewhere.
I see you both have successfully changed the dc motor inside the actuator, I was wondering if you could share how did you test the actuator with the new dc motor in before fitting it to the door? I understand the actuator housing itself has a proprietary connection, do you know which pins I need to apply some voltage at to see if the actuator is alive or not? Iāve not actually taken the actuator out yet so my knowledge about it is only from the photos I found online.
Iām really hoping it is the actuator dead and not something else. I read somewhere about a control module controlling these actuators and that it is only reachable by removing the whole dashboard, a job I definitely will not be able to do so fingers crossed it is not that.
Iād really appreciate any info or help
Just an update, I bit the bullet and bought a new actuator without testing the old actuator first as I originally wanted to. Thankfully it was indeed my old actuator being faulty, so my problem is now fixed and the purchase of the new actuator was needed.
The reason Iām sharing this is that it turns out quite simple to test the actuator without doing the whole job. Basically you only need to remove the door cover (only 2 or 3 screws you need to remove) and not the inner door shield. The electrical connector to the door actuator is then visible and you can disconnect the pin from the old actuator and connect to the new one and test if you can hear the motor rotate when you unlock or not. This way if it doesnāt rotate you can be sure that something else is wrong and you can just return the new actuator without doing anything to it or continuing through the remaining pain of the job.