already recommended AUTTRONIX above, he does Roddisons tuning
More votes for Paul at Roddisons Motorsport S9 1US & Clive at Autotronix S25 1YP
Any pics of this fitted?
Hi
Not one of the engine bay. It replaces the black air box completely so you just have a black metal pipe there instead.
This is where the filter sits.
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It would be bumper off then each time that filter needs attention, oiling etc or under tray off?
not a big job taking off the bumper
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If you map exclusively for 99 you’ll see some gains. Also the map on the later cars had better driveability so the early ones can be made better in that respect.
No, you can just undo the bottom tray and get you hand in and with a screwdriver from the front to undo the clips. It just needs washing if it should “get really dirty”.
No oiling either.
I bought a spare filter which is still sat in the box as not doing the mileage at the moment. 
Picture from the top.
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What’s the noise like with that intake? My car has already got a sportier sounding back box and manifold change.
Now there is a question!!!
To be honest I don’t notice any intake noise on mine as have a 4-1 ILMS header.
When I first had it done, I had a Go Perform rear box on and the noise was far too much for me.
As people have probably read before, I changed that to the Cobalt one which was better.
However, I noticed that mine got “louder” the hotter it got…
Something I learnt the other week from Powerflow is the fact stainless steel expands at a higher rate and hence it does get louder sadly (for me).
The power/torque/drivability with the remap does make it so much better though.
I have spent time with Powerflow in Melksham and discussed how I could perhaps “Tone” it down a bit even more, (yes I know lack of home work and chasing one’s tail, but you know how it is 
).
Will report back in due course what they have achieved/done in due course as a few options.
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Thanks for the info on the intake, I’ll have a think on that. Looking at something to do there on the car.
Sounds strange I know but I don’t know until I’ve driven it properly how the noise will be (when hot) and as you say I notice a little more like yourself when they get really hot.
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Thanks for pics. No fear for water?
Discussed the water aspect at the time in July 2019 with Skuzzle.
They had no problems reported back. They did have one chap request to modify and move the filter into the original space where the filter housing was.
Sort of defeats the object really…(Cold airflow and all that).
The design of the filter which is strong SS wire mesh and quality foam and the angle fitted prevents any water ingress/suction.
I have used mine in “Torrential” rain on a Europe tour and ever since with no problems.
I WOULD NOT wade with it mind. On saying that I have never done that with any of my cars, (except tanks when I was in the Army). Why would you anyway, find another route or if escaping mother earth or going to a fall out bunker disconnect it at the top perhaps. 
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One guy did write his car off with one fitted driving through standing water.
I strongly suspect these are Snake oil, there is no logical explanation for any power increase.
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Dyno proves otherwise
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That’s the problem with dynos, it’s not what they are for and people don’t realise it.
Really? Strange opinion that a before and after run with gains means nothing.
What measure should be used in your world?
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Indeed.
My understanding is that a dyno reading in isolation is meaningless but before and after readings are not only valid but the only way to measure gains or losses.
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It isn’t an opinion, it’s a fact. Go hit Google; there are two different types of dyno.
An engine dyno is used correctly for power comparisons, not a chassis dyno. The latter is actually a tuning tool.
We are talking about such a minute amount of power that it can be attributed to a great many other factors. I can show you dyno sheets where we ran the same car up time and time again, one after another and every run shows a different output. So what do we do?
Well it’s obvious, I take the highest figure recorded and go wave my d ick around like everyone else does.
Large power differences are more believable, but even so are not 100% accurate. If you make +20bhp on the same dyno, at the same time then it is circa +20, it isn’t exactly +20. If you show +3 then it’s anything from -3, to zero, to +3.
You’re talking about a machine which actually measures WHP, but then goes on to make an attempt at calculating FWHP.
Someone tested an aftermarket replacement filter element and said it gave a gain, I tested it and saw a loss. So who you gonna believe? Not me, why would you want the cold hard truth when you can throw your money at something which makes you happy?
A large percentage of the tuning game is a big con.
People come to me an say ‘Can you do me this? Can you do me that?’ I’ll say no and they’ll ask why, I tell them exactly what to expect and if they want me to rip them off I will, but at least i’ll tell them first. I’m not interested in selling jokes or supporting these lies. Then I go back to doing something useful.
I put something out there which will make a difference, guaranteed. I don’t care if you can’t afford it or don’t want it. I’m in the business to make a difference, not make money.
The fact of the matter is I know more about engines than you’ll ever know in your life, so when someone says i’m getting xyz bhp because we xxxx and xxxxx I know for sure whether they are or aren’t. The laws of physics, testing and experience say so. You have to have an equal or more knowledge than the conman in order to catch them out, when you have less you’re at their mercy.
I’m the supplier of all the NC brass gearshifter bushes made in the UK. I don’t do one for the 5 speed box. Why? Because they aren’t needed. I could have told you they were, you wouldn’t have known and I would have doubled my money, but I have a decent moral stance.
When this Skuzzle thing came out his reasoning as to where the actual power came from was wrong. He was either lying on purpose, deluded or just uneducated, I don’t know which.
The only way you’ll get a truly accurate answer as to whether it works or not is to test it on an engine dyno and no-one is going to pay for that. Nor will most of the people take notice of the results. So we’ll just carry on believing whatever the heck we like and spunking money to make ourselves happy.
Sorry for the long post, I hope that makes things crystal clear.
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I only look at WHP on chassis dyno readings. There are unscrupulous tuners about that exaggerate the power train losses to inflate the so called engine bhp. Also it is pointless comparing one dyno to another. Back to back results on the same dyno I would tend to believe
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