My Eunos has had warnings at the last 2 MOTs about the handbrake efficiency. Both times there was no issue with foot braking efficiency so just the handbrake mentioned. It seemed to work fine in operation so not too worried about it apart from usual brake servicing and checks.
Recently though, the handbrake has started to cause me problems on steep slopes. Lever comes up as it should but brake not holding effectively on a steep slope. Cables and lever seem to operate fine so I am thinking it is the separate operation for the handbrake in the rear calipers that is the problem. Is there something in the handbrake mechanism on these calipers that wears and needs replacement? I would rather refurbish/repair my own original Mazda calipers than buy aftermarket replacements if possible.
Can anyone advise on this and what needs to be done, thank you
See:
https://www.miata.net/garage/ebrake/index.html
I believe the parts known as the Hotdog and the Actuator wear out. These aren’t availble as seperate parts.
Usual approach is to buy remanufactured calipers; these are based on Mazda cores. Don’t buy the aftermarket new calipers, though I have a pair of these someone can have for beer money.
The issue is the internal components in the caliper.
Most MX5 suppliers sell a repair kit that allows you to strip down the calipers and rebiold tem which is doable if you have rebuilt calipers in the past.
The issue I have is that you may find the piston is alo rusty and the cost of the repair kit and the piston make the job non economic.
I have changed between 15 and 20 rear calipers and have used MX5parts, Autolink(UK) and brakeparts.co.uk and have never received a faulty caliper from these vendors.
Due to the age of the calipers say 20 years old or more, I never consider refurbing them and it is easy to tear the seals on reassembly.
I have successfully rebuilt three rear calipers with new pistons and seals. It is a time consuming task and there is a learning curve. I have time on my hands and think myself as a competent mechanic. Biggred in Worcester provided the parts. However I would recommend that a re manufactured caliper is the best way to go for most people. It is of course important to adjust the handbrake correctly as has been mentioned many times and Eddie has explained the method very fully in the past.
Thank you for the replies.
We have resolved the problem resulting in a handbrake that works better than it ever has before.
It was just adjustment of the cable at the handbrake lever end. One screw loosened and the plastic cover splits allowing access to a slotted nut that tightens things up when turned clockwise. My handbrake seemed fine but was stopping at about nine clicks. When adjusted about four turns of the nut, took it down to around seven - what a difference!
The correct procedure to adjust the rear brakes on these models would be to slacken off the cable at the lever end first. Then adjust each caliper at the wheel via the adjuster until it’s difficult to rotate the disc by hand then slacken off so there’s a slight drag on the discs from the pad contact. Once done take the slack up at the handbrake to around 7 clicks fully on it should hold each disc from rotating with a firm hand grip to test.
Wheels on and go for a drive and test the brakes a few times including the hand brake. Get the rears up in the air again and test each wheel/disc for drag against the pads and also the efficiency of the handbrake hold and it’s balanced each side. If all’s good great, you may have to readjust if you find you have one binding, that means slackening the handbrake cable at the lever too before proceeding.
I spent time doing this on my previous Mk1, twice I had to readjust the rears to get properly balanced brakes at the rear, MOT pass no problem.