Rally tomorrow so thinks “I’ll get the car out, and give it a clean” as it is still splattered with flies, tyre and brake dust from a track day outing a couple of weeks ago.
Now feeling a bit stupid as I think I probably left the headlamps on (I’d twiddled every switch by then and can’t remember where it was when I started).
The reason I think I might have left them on is that I just noticed that the headlamp ‘icon’ on the twiddling bit of the stalk is actually next to the word “OFF” when the headlamps are in fact ON. The OFF in question actually relates to the rear foglamp.
I think that must be the explanation, as I almost never use the headlamp switch which is usually in the ‘auto’ position; and I do recall coming home that evening on the intermittently tree-lined Cotswold roads, and turning the headlamps on manually to stop them switching on and off with the alternate light and shade.
Automatic headlamps - another solution for a problem we didn’t have!
I might, or might not, be there tomorrow. Fingers crossed it works when the battery has charged up.
John,
Pardon me but am I missing summat?
Even my Mk1 has a warning buzzer if I leave lights on with ignition off.
So does our Mk2.5…I think.
Not being sarky…it’s true and I’ve been grateful a few times.
Thanks, now that you mention it… perhaps my theory is wrong then and I didn’t leave them on, which still leaves a mystery…
I purposely leave the interior light and boot switches in the off position. It’s been unused in a garage for 17 days after a 100 mile run, I’ve left it for over a month previously without battery problems.
Ah…the buzzer does indeed sound if you leave the just position lights on but it doesn’t sound if you exit the car with the headlamps on. The position lights and headlamps do go out, but perhaps this switch position causes some residual current draw. Odd. Maybe it’s just my car.
No simple way to check without trying it again. I don’t think I’ll bother.
Unless they’ve significantly changed how the ND systems work since my early car, I don’t think it’s possible to run the battery down in the ways @John_M describes.
IIRC the interior lights go out when the car is locked. But they all have a time out anyway, after about 30 minutes of no door movement with the engine off, power to all interior lights is stopped and the infotainment system is shut off. I know this from having the accessories powered and radio on for extended periods whilst cleaning the car interior - to find it’s suddenly dark and quiet.
Leaving the headlamp switch ON dipped with the ignition off, no exterior lights will be on. I do this all the time, because it makes the headlamps illuminated for about 30s when you unlock the car. The only way to keep any external lights on without having the ignition on is to use the sidelight switch position, and you then get a warning beep whenever the driver’s door is open, like any other car . Also a function you may not be aware of, you can flash the full beam after the engine is off and dipped beam will remain on for upto a couple of minutes.
My experience of the ND1 2.0L is it’s just a rather small battery and doesn’t last more than a couple of weeks without being driven or charged. The Panasonic OEM wet lead acid unsealed battery that came with the car also died after 5 years without much warning.
OK, using a CTEK MXS3.8. That charger won’t start there if no opposing voltage so there must have been a couple of volts present but there were no ‘ignition’ lights and no starter activity so I assume the car just shuts down if the voltage drops below a limit.
It’s back to normal now AFAIK. I went to the National in it on Sunday, and put it back on charge when I got home as it had only reached the absorption stage, then last evening(Tuesday) it had reached full charge and I went out to the monthly club meeting. I didn’t bother to put it back on when I came home so if it’s still OK in a couple of days I shall deem it fully recovered!
