I’m surprised nobody makes replacement inner skins or patches that can be welded in for these boot lids. Mine has totally gone, I’ve tried finding a decent sunlight one with no rust but they all seem to be like this. A strategically placed drain hole might help a little.
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Is this something that affects NCs only, or do I need to treat my ND before it happens
David
Ouch!
Its very common place, there are drainage holes but thats the issue with people , they don’t see the problem until its to late, even with all the preaching we do to inform owners, we can only offer advice, its whether its taken and listened to.
You need a newer boot lid, and don’t be faffy and picky about colour with a MK 2/2.5 boot lid,you need to find and fit what ever is good, it can be sprayed the correct colour and then treat it when fitted, its just a trait of that mark,MK 1 fairs slightly better, MK 3 you can see in this thread, MK 4 we wait and see,there are plenty of other traits across all the marks.
M-m
Treat it now. It is easy, there are loads of holes to squirt your chosen product into. Prevention is always better than a cure.
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Someone once correctly said “cars are designed to be driven hard for 10 years, then scrapped”. Most of us are pushing them beyond the end of their design lives, and some extra treatment is to be expected. You can’t really blame Mazda.
White fungal-spread crusty-powdery look is Ali.
Various inhibitors claim to be available, but I’ve never had any joy with one. 
Our only successes were when making sure the etching primer is very good and in at least a couple of layers with absolutely no pinholes, zero. Mk1 Landy body panels. Never, ever again. Many bad words said by both of us.
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That ND boot lid Richard looks exactly like my NC lid did but around the plate lights. I put a before and after picture up earlier in this thread, it affected all three cutouts in the boot lid, more than shown in the pics.
Ground back with a flap wheel on the Dremel to bare metal. I just used a rattle can plastic primer (I bought that for a different job) 3 coats applied, then same coverage with the finish colour plus laquer.
I reckon over 2 years on (car sold) it was still looking fresh and corrosion free under that part of the boot.
Use a rust converter for the steel boot lids if it’s not eaten away too much metal.
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Yeap , oxidizing under a layer of poor thin paint protection, but I would pop the grommet out to check the inside where the condensation is gathering.
Same issue whether it’s ally or metal get some cavity wax in there before it gets worse.
M-m
Thanks - the car needs to go to a body shop soon because unfortunately part of my garage door fell and damaged the front bumper. I’ll see if the corrosion can be addressed at the same time. It’s not the sort of thing I’d attempt myself - lack of time and skills.
Which Dinitrol product would be best for the NC boot lid cavity, ML or 1000?
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