There is a most excellent guide on how to replace the front and rear brake pads on the Mk I & Mk II but this does not cover the Mk III.<o:p></o:p>
Does anyone have a similar guide for the 1.8 MK III or what particular differences should I look out for. I am particularly concerned with:-<o:p></o:p>
1. Anti squeal shims<o:p></o:p>
2. The rear calliper wind back mechanism, and <o:p></o:p>
3. Torque settings for the guide pin bolts.
Thanks
Ken<o:p></o:p>
Hi Ken
I just changed all my pads on our MK3!!! Mazda wanted £350 plus MOT and third sevice!!!
I used green stuff pads all round from MX 5 Parts for £109. First thing for the fronts you will need a 14mm socket and 19mm and a 4" G clamp to push the piston back in to the caliper housing and some copper slip grease and some brake cleaner spray.
The fronts are easy to do! Loosen the wheel nuts with the cars still on the ground and with the handbrake firmpy applied. Jack up the car and use axle stands, take the wheel off then take the master cylinder cap off, If you start on passenger side turn to the right on full lock, then undo the bottom caliper bolt using the 14mm socket! You may have to use the 19 mm spanner to stop the guide pin moving.
Once you have removed the bolt move the caliper upwards and use some wire to support it. Remove the pads and then place one pad against the piston and use the G clamp to move the piston back in to the caliper bore making sure that the piston is going in to the bore square. Be aware that the brake fluid will rise in the master cylinder! so use a small container for the surplus fluid.
Clean the carrier shims and then use the copper grease on the shims where the pads locate, Green stuff pads come with the pad shims fitted. The inboard and outboard are the same ( no pad squealer) Refit the pads,and then tighten the caliper guide pin bolt 23 to 35 newtons and pump the brakes to set the pads against the disc. Use the same method for the drivers side.
The rears are a little bit different, they have a slotted piston face which a piston winder will be useful or a flat blade of some kind to fit the slot to rewind the piston back in to the caliper bore.
The rear pads have a small round lug which must match up with the slot on the piston. Again undo the two caliper bolts this time (it may be a 12mm bolt cannot remember now) remove the caliper and rewind the piston making sure when you wind the piston back the slot is in the centre of the caliper. Fit the pads, the inboard pad will have the lug which will must match up with the slot on the face of the piston. Refit the bolts using the same torque values.
Pump the brakes and check brake fluid level. Job done[:D]
I hope this helps you Ken, It’s not too difficult to do.
If you need any more info let me know or if you live near me I will do them for you!!! I worked for Lucas car braking for 24 years so I do know what I’m doing…LOL[;)]
Regards
Jeff
It’s a lot easier to loosen the wheel nuts with the car on the ground
Otherwise good write up, I’ll include it in the brake faq at some point
Hi Geoff
Yea you got me on that one!!![:D]
I changed the pads on another MK3 the other day. What I don’t like is the price Mazda want to charge to replacing the brake pads! Over £330 crazy money for what is a simple job for them!!!
LIke I said to Ken If he lived near me I would do them for him! anything to help a fellow MX’r save some money!!! [:P]
Regards
Jeff
Hi Jeff, I’ve edited the original post
Thanks for replies.
Details supplied by Jeff are exactly what I wanted and should make the job straightforward and save on the stealer price.
Ken