I’ve tried heat, wd40, 2LB hammer, while using a ball joint removal tool, but it won’t budge.
Any ideas please?
Camerart
Which ball joint, pictures?
I had one recently where it wouldn’t budge. So I torqued it all back together and planned to abandon the job (or work around it). Then for whatever reason went back to it and unbolted it with an impact driver (as opposed to a spanner) and it sprung apart. Must be due to the shock/vibration imparted.
If it is a threaded and tapered interface I found on numerous occasions in the old days, that hitting one side of the joint interface whilst holding a heavy hammer or weight on the other side, at the point where the tapered ball-joint interface is, can free it up. The impact using this method momentarily slightly ovalizes the tapered hole in which the tapered ball joint pin and thread passes through and frees up any seizure. This way also prevents you from knackering the thread on the ball-joint if you need to reuse it. Give it a try.
Hi All,
This is the bottom ball joint that needs to drop down to be able to undo the bolt, under the shock absorber.
There isn’t much room, especially with the tool in, but so far most of the answers mention side banging, so next nice day, I’ll get the sledge hammers out 
Cheers, C
What removal tool are you using?
I had a troublesome ball joint and had to resort to a tool that pressed the part out as I tightened the tool with a spanner.
Initially I bought the cheapest tool at Halfords which was a kind of forked drift.
Then I went up to the next stage that resembles a “g” clamp that’s supposed to fit over the joint and press it apart. It doesn’t fit. Finally went to the most expensive cantilever design which eventually worked.
It went with a heck of a bang when it finally popped. Scared the daylights out of me!
Good luck and hope you get your issue resolved.
Hi T,
I have a heavily made cantilever type, that barely fits in, till I bash it in with a 2Lb hammer, then as you say a spanner, then bash the joint throught the clamp, with again the 2lb hammer.
As mentioned, next time, I’ll side swipe it.
C
<stands> I have never managed to separate a ball joint with hammers. <pauses for effect, sits>
There; I’ve admitted it.
Anyway, I got a scissor type separator and that has always worked, though it needs to be tightened up to OMG-surely-it’s-going-to-snap before the joint pops. Or rather bangs like a gunshot as TOGs_driver described.
But to rewind a bit, you don’t actually need to separate the ball joint to get the shock absorber out. At least two procedures, known as “The San Diego Miata Club Method” and “The Long Bolt Method” will each let you change front shocks without touching the ball joints. Both have their fans. Both should be Googleable although I presume there’s at least one method described in the tech area here on the forum.
Hi M,
Ok, I’ll re-try with the cantilever, then try the hammers.
I’m changing the ball joint, not the shock absorber, although the shock absorber is trying to change itself, but the feel of the pressure, remembering that somehow, if I do get the new ball in, all of this needs squashing back together to get the bolts back in.
C
Hi,
As the cantilever needs a good bash to get it nearly in, I realised that it was the rubber, that was keeping it from seating. First I cut out the rubber, and the cantelever went farther in, but would not sit flat covering the pin, so I got it as best as I could and tightened, and failed again.
The hammer approach is impossible, as the shape is like a humb backed bridge, so nowhere to have an anvil.
So here we are!
The best I can think of is get a better cantilever. The one I have borrowed and bent, is cast iron and a bit chubby. Can I hire one or buy one, I live in the UK.
C.
Hi,
Tried again, but this time I jacked the wheel up so it was more parallel, then the cantilever fitted better, tightened, and CRACK!!
It’s off, great, thanks to all.
C.
Well done for persevering.
Hopefully you feel a sense of achievement now that the battle is won. 
Hi T,
I’ve got the other side to do tomorrow, so ahlf the battle so far, but yes, it is better to succeded than fail.
Hopefully the other side, won’t cause so many cuts and bruises
C.
Hi T,
Did the second side today, about 2 hours, and no cuts or bruises.
Do I detect a little satisfaction growing
Cheers, C.
Well done👍