Is my ECU faulty?

Hi Richard

I’m not that sophisticated mate and neither is the damage encountered. The photo below is an average to a little less than average chip damage and collateral burning. Anything PCB layer critical would be cremated.
I will be in touch with you soon, so this is just a warning:-) Got a new alternator with a shorting issue. It is shorting through the brushes to the case, heating up big time when fitted. I’ve tried a replacement regulator but the same problem. Will confirm full facts and message you.

So… bit of an update. I noticed that the vacuum pipe from my intake manifold to the MAP sensor was missing and the intake was plugged. I purchased and fitted a new MAP sensor and vacuum hose. After doing this, the car continued to idle poorly. I checked for codes. The previous codes I had have now cleared and I have four new codes, written below. If anybody has a clue what is going on I’d mega appreciate some help. My MOT is coming up in a month and I’m at a total loss :melting_face::face_with_spiral_eyes: thanks!

P0010 - A camshaft position actuator circuit / open bank 1

P0107 - Manifold absolute pressure / Barometric pressure circuit low

P0113 - Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high

P0123 - Throttle / Pedel position sensor / Switch A circuit high

Update. I wiped the codes and only the P0107 persists. I will check the voltages from the MAP sensor and ecu side of the wires tomorrow to try and diagnose it further.

Hi Dan

Those issues do sound Ecu related or failing that signal voltage wiring issues.
Clearing the codes is a start but if I am right they will reappear.
I can clone your ecu, so upon receipt of your ecu, facilitate another to perform similarly and hopefully without the fault codes.
Or, having read previous posts, happy to clone a donor ecu, you provide, from your original, if that suits you better.

Hi Rob,
Thanks for the advice and kind offer to help out with the ECU. I’d definitely like to take you up on that offer. I will still check voltages tomorrow to try and work out of its a wiring issue or not. I’ll drop you a private message to discuss prices and postage etc.
Mega thanks!

Multimeter check update. I found elsewhere on mx5oc that the voltages for the MAP sensor should read:

Light Green / Red = 4.5 to 5.5
Black / Red = Close to 0
Blue / Yellow = 2.1 to 4.8 (depending on altitude

Mine read from the ecu…

Light Green / Red = 4.9
Black / Red = 0.1
Blue / Yellow = 0.1

Im guessing that its the Blue / Yellow output of the ecu that is the issue then.

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What voltages have you got at the actual sensor?

Hi Robbie, I actually got the voltages from one of your previous comments so thank you! :joy:
And well, after checking the ecu first I assumed that I found the issue so I didnt bother checking the sensor, or was that a rookie mistake?

I’d think the the Blue/Yellow is the output from the sensor so is the sensor output OK but it’s a broken wire back to the ECU?

Oh! I need to check for that then, thank you!

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Just to confirm, you’re looking at the Barometric pressure sensor, there is no Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor on NB.

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Uh, are they the same thing? The original one had “boost sensor” or something similar written on it.
Again, apologies for sounding like a noob, I’m learning a lot with this car and really appreciate the advice :pray:

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Barometric pressure sensor senses atmospheric pressure as a reference. It should sense atmospheric pressure. The same sensor component can be used as a MAP sensor.

Okay so on my NB 1.8VVT 2002, I found that my Barometric pressure sensor was wired in but had no vacuum hose attached. I also noticed that the vacuum output on top of my intake manifold was capped off. I found that is where the sensor should be plugged in so I purchased a new sensor and vacuum hose and plugged it in.
Did I do that correctly?

It shouldn’t be attached to the intake manifold by a hose. It should be open to atmospheric pressure.

Oh ■■■■. I was told by a garage that my MAP sensor was cut off… I didnt want to fork out any more money so I took the car to do the work myself. :triumph:
I’ll remove the vacuum hose and re-plug the vacuum output on the intake manifold ASAP.

Back to sqaure one again. Fml. Thank you for your help though!

Okay I removed the vacuum hose from the Barometric pressure sensor and re-plugged intake manifold. I’ve got no codes showing now but it still idles poorly. After everything I’ve done to remedy this I have no idea what to try next :sweat_smile:

What do you mean by idles poorly? Have you eliminated a MAF sensor fault?

So the rough idle / idle droop is the original issue that im trying to resolve. The car runs ritch and fails emissions. Through process of elimination I have fixed a bunch of issues that could have been causing the issue. The MAP sensor was suggested by a garage recently after I decided to get it looked at by a professional, turns out that there probably wasn’t anything wrong with my original MAP sensor and I paid £200ish for for the diagnosing.
The car currently doesnt have any fault codes but it still idles like ■■■■ and smells very fuely. My MOT is coming up in a few weeks and I fear that it will likely fail unless I can sort this out. Been looking into it for over a year now :melting_face: