Hi to everyone.I’m a new member and have just bought my 2004 1600.As i’m unsure about the jacking points on the car where ar the best places to use a trolly jack front and rear
On the diff at the back and the cross member at the front.
Oh and welcome to the addiction.
I’m afraid if you do not have a long and low trolley jack it can be difficult getting to the front crossmember from the front of the car.
If that is the case, the jacking points that are shown in the handbook on the sill flanges are the ones to use but they only lift that corner of the car, rather than either the front or the back of the car.
To get trolley jack clearance under my mk3, I use a couple of bits of wood (offcuts of roof beams, a couple of inches thick and about 6 inches wide, and a few feet long, drive the appropriate 2 wheels onto the wood and jack from there. Don’t forget to leave the wood in place when lowering the trollEy jack though, could be embarrassing!
I also pop an ice hockey puck onto the little bucket at the end of the jack, to protect the car.
As previously suggested, jack access is restricted due to height, so I use ramps first then jack, or use sill jacking points with a piece of wood as protection. Do not be tempted to jack on the chassis rail/floor ribs as they will crush.
Car lookin good Phil.
Find the jacking point in the corner you need lifting, put your trolley jack under the roadster, rise the jacks pad so it is just not connecting to the body tub underneath, pull it forward/towards you so it is at the back of the sill lip at the jacking point and lift.never jack on the lip as it will crush the drainage points, or on the front of the sill.
Please make sure that you wedge the wheels front or rear depending on which end your lifting and if poss always on flat ground and NEVER work on one up in the air supported by a jack only always rest her on a axle stand as soon as you can ,never trust a jack.
Thanks Eddie, was taken a few years ago nut it still scrubs up reasonably well for a daily drive, even if it showing its age a little.
^^^ And matching ramps too.
Good advice MM about the use of axle stands and chocks.
This picture is under the front of a Mk2 similar to the Mk1 with the jack pads at the front crossmemeber if you want to jack from the front of the car, Wayne had advised how to jack from the side others show a way to use ramps to get the jacking done.
The picture has a very heavy, £200 and long but low lifting pad red jack that is long enough to get under there just and jack from the front.
The orange jack is also a low lifting pad jack but the normal length of a £30 to £40 jack where there is no room to raise the lifting pad as the lever hits the under apron of the car as the jack is so far under the car as the jack body is not long enough.
I have the orange jack shown above. I come in from the side and use the joint between the chassis and lower suspension arm to jack up. I then use stands to keep the car in the air and always put a wheel under the car so if anything fails the car lands on the wheel not your head.
I use the bar just to the rear of the diff to raise it at the back as it is too low to fit under the diff.
I have see others use planks to raise the car to use other jacks, as in drive on to the planks then fit jack under
The hockey puck on the lift point of the jack is a good idea I find the car is much more stable whilst jacking with it in place.
I use ramps most of the time unless changing pads then I have to use the stands. In both cases I use chocks on the wheels on the ground
In avonmouth there is also a place called “ramp it up” where you pay for 0.5 day or full day to hire proper hydraulic ramp and tools
Are there jacking points on the mk4? No jack and none shown in the hand book!