NC 2.0L Sport 2006 Brake upgrade time. Recommendations please?

Hi,

So I’ve got a 2006 2.0 sport. Had the car a year, got it cheap off eBay hence I’ve spent £1500 on an engine rebuild and the rear arch welding £600. But, still love it. Cars done 69,000 miles.

On top of that. After assistance from reading the forum and asking 1 previous question I’ve popped on 4 Kumho PS71 tyres and a Colbolt back box. Both of which I could not recommend highly enough.

I’ve recently done a track day, I’ve run the engine in for 2000 miles first by the way! The brakes worked well but the left rear NS started to stick a bit, presuming its the normal calliper sticking problem. Had decided before the track day the next thing on the list was the brakes anyway. Not that they are bad anyway.

Use. Fast road use (when possible) and 2 track days a year. 3K miles a year.

Question 1. I want to paint the callipers anyway. Do I buy new callipers or recondition myself. The recon kits seem expensive compared to others cars I’ve done before. So shall I just buy new ones. If so where from. Any recommendations?

Question 2. New performance discs. There doesn’t seem to be a huge selection out there. I prefer grooved rather than drilled. Any recommendations.

Question 3. Performance pads. Not a clue, minefield out there.

I’ve already done loads of research but still stuck so help needed. I won’t even mention what I’m thinking of at the moment as keeping an open mind.

Any advise and pointers will be appreciated. Not spending a fortune either!

Thanks, Treve.

Not from experience on calipers or discs but rather more from gleaning info on t’internet…
Get some exchange copy calipers, I hear Pagid as a brand.
As for discs, the originals have excellent stopping power so perhaps a Brembo copy which will work out rather cheaper than OEM. I’m not sure there’s any advantage to drilled/slotted.
Pads wise, I currently have Roddisons on all round and they are pretty excellent for fast road and track. They never faltered at all on the track all day and don’t shove out buckets of dust on the road either. A great dual purpose pad.

1 Like

If you have not already done so change the brake fluid. It’s amazing how much rubbish comes out of the callipers on the first flush. This may help to prolong the life of the existing callipers and improve the brake feel. You could go to high temp fluid if you think it may be better for track use. If you do go down the replacement calliper route then think about braided flexi brake lines at the same time.

2 Likes

If you have the time and tools I would consider cleaning the existing brakes and replacing or regreasing slider pins. I am convinced most sticking is caused by long term use and low mileage with part worn pads and pins extended. Over time dust and corrosion not being cleaned from springs and carriers compounds the problem.
At some point though exchange calipers become cost effective.
Roddisons pads seem to have good recommendations.

2 Likes

Pagid are a good exchange unit but if you can a strip and regrease of the slider pins might be all that is needed.
I use Mtec disks on mine with J hook pattern for no other reason than the car came with them and I like the look and might offer a bit of surface exhaust and deglazing on the pad. They have stood up to a number of brake heavy track outings with no warping. Good plain disks are fine even for trackdays, I have always avoided drilled disks as I have seen cracking, grooves can offer some deglazing and gas exhaust but really the choice is more what you like the look of. EBC are also a good disk and pad. Yellow stuff is favoured by many.
I am still on the pads the car came with but am going with Roddison pads for my next brake service. For fluid I use Motul RBF600 Dot 4, you can use Dot 5.1 as well but I can recommend the Motul for track use. About 1 litre was enough for the change. The flexi hoses can be upgraded if needed. I believe the standard lines are quite good but if you want a braided line Goodridge or Hel are well made. I used Hel in the past as they offer externally coated with a plastic that stops corrosion.

3 Likes

Good shout just replaced discs and pads, and from various supplies all of the slider pins and clips at a cost of around £40.00 ebay

1 Like

Most of the sticking is caused by the caliper corroding and gripping the piston, Easily fixed with a seal kit and a good clean (£8.36 from mx5parts)

2 Likes

How does the caliper corrode inside the dust seal, do you mean excessive moisture in the brake fluid?

Many thanks for all your reply chaps.

So…Roddison pads it is. I like the look of the Mtec discs, especially the grooved. Funny thing is I’ve looked on the freaky parts web site and they use exactly the same picture as on the Mtec website but 10% cheaper. Will call freaky parts as I expect they are Mtec discs. Freaky parts also have the Hel hoses at £40 so will be getting them. Also be getting the Motul fluid.
Just leaves the callipers. Decided to do them myself. The seal kit at £8.36 per calliper looks perfect. Some decent red brake paint and wire brush set should do the job.
I’ll report back in the spring. Car coming off the road SWORN for 2 or 3 months so it will be a nice little project. If anyone thinks I’m making a mistake anywhere please let me know.

Thanks again :slight_smile:

No it corrodes around the dust seal from moisture for the outside

Looking forward to hearing what your brake mods do to the feel of your car.

My NC1 had very good initial bite which I like, where as my NC2 does not - Am keen to try and re-instate this on the NC2!

Will keep you posted in April Sorn today after a nice little outing!! 3 months tucked away in the garage unless I can’t handle it and the sun comes out in March!!

As has been said, i paid £8.34p for a caliper seal kit, if you have general engineering know how it’s not a difficult job.
My personal thought on the corrosion is it can also be caused by condensation of the trapped air behind the dust seal which can/will get hot, cold, hot etc, with the brakes being applied along with moisture from the brake fluid.
You will find corrosion to the bottom of the cylinder bore as it sits on the car because oil (brake fluid) floats on water.

Thanks, Thats confirmed it. I/m going for the kit and dong it myself :slight_smile:

Use plenty red brake grease.

1 Like