ND Reverse Camera - DIY Fit

An alternative is a dashcam mirror like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dashboard-FUNANASUN-Recorder-Recording-Detection-Black/dp/B076BRBX1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516697101&sr=8-1&keywords=dashcam+mirror some of which come with a recording reverse view camera.

 

Currently reduced from £70 to £30 on Amazon.

Rear view then appears, not on the in-car system, but in a view in the mirror, but is also continuously recorded whilst driving, (if you update the firmware).

Looks quite decent. Presumably it just clips over the existing rear view mirror? If so I wonder if that will make it quite obtrusive in the field of view… I also don’t fancy drilling holes in the rear bumper but then again, there’s really no need for a reversing camera or rear parking sensors in a MX5. 

 

Has anyone had this fitted by a garage. Cost/Location?

I’ve watched the video on youtube and don’t fancy it but it does seem ridiculous to have a screen in the car and no reversing camera. Anyway I’m addicted to them from my SUV and naturally look at the screen before looking behind.

Thanks

Has anyone had this fitted by a garage. Cost/Location?

I’ve watched the video on youtube and don’t fancy it but it does seem ridiculous to have a screen in the car and no reversing camera. Anyway I’m addicted to them from my SUV and naturally look at the screen before looking behind.

Thanks

I’m looking to do this myself. Rather than paying £360 for OEM kit or £130 for the Ventura/IL Motorsports kit I’m hoping to put together individual parts for a whole lot less.

Biggest problem is that the Mazda MZD system outputs 6 volts for the camera. Most generic cameras are designed to work on 12 volts. Internally this is dropped to a lower voltage so maybe some cameras may work with the 6 volts from the head unit. I’ve got a camera on order from China at the moment and hoping this might work. If not I’ll try a step up voltage converter. However I do it it will still be plug and play, there won’t be any cutting or splicing wires.

If I can get a system up and running I’m considering making up some more kits if anybody is interested. This will take some time as I’m still waiting for the parts to arrive and then I’ll be into head scratching mode to get it working. Then I’ll be on the wait for more parts to arrive on a slow boat from China.

Installation procedure will be almost identical to the Ventura kit.

Two questions for you folks. -

  1. Does the Ventura kit come with any instructions? If it does then could somebody scan me a copy.

  2. If anybody fancies fitting a kit but considers the current options too expensive, how much would you pay?

Just to give you a clue I’m thinking of a price somewhere around half the price of the cheapest current option.

I had the same problem last year with my Mazda3, same Infotainment system, and the 6V feed (5.8V to 6.2V). 

There are two solutions at first sight; use a voltage converter patched in between the Mazda connector and the “Rear Mount Camera” (as Mazda call it), or take the 12V from the reversing light. 

The Mazda3 forum goes into it here

http://www.mazda3forums.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=ua8a5snhhq4jgh7j4kkgrqgajocujrqa&topic=14010.msg111142#msg111142

I chose the voltage converter system because this way was proven to work.  I was unsure if the head unit would recognise the camera with the 12V power being switched separately (now after having later read the diagnostics sequence for the camera system, I think not).

These are the bits I used:

  1. Camera, cheap and simple, 60Hz because I assumed the Mazda3 will be on Japanese frame rate, anyway, it seems to cope.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N2YB08Q/

  1. DC-DC up-converter, beware it comes preset to 19V, and turning the output control anticlockwise RAISES the output voltage.  I set this up with a 180ohm 3W dummy load resistor before trying it with a camera.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DC-DC-converter/dp/B0194QK3F2/

  1. A standard 0.1" pitch in-line slim socket, I cannibalised a cheap chinese ‘motherboard to USB’ lead for this, and for the video I chopped up an old phono lead rather than destroy a nice new long lead.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013HTXDKO/

I was careful with the soldering, put the converter board into a little waterproof plastic box with grommets for the power in and out leads, and routed the video lead past it direct to the connector wires.  I added a small plastic plug in the white lead hole for safety as a key.  I kept the power and video grounds separate as on the Mazda circuit, although the forum example above strapped them together at the connector.  I sleeved all the joints with sticky heat-shrink.  I have a USB Picoscope attachment for the laptop which allows me to check these things in the car if needed.  After I was happy it worked I wrapped it in self-amalgamating tape to seal it from condensation (easier than sticky heat-shrink to chop into if there is a problem later).

Pinouts are

CMU - Mazda camera plug lead  (ex-USB Lead)

  1C - A  +6v power                   1 (red and index mark on shell)

         B  Missing pin                   2 (white)

  1A - C  Video in from Camera   3 (green)

  1B - D  Video ground                4 (black)

  1D - E  power ground               5 (cable screen)

It works, the camera is not brilliant, but good enough to see the odd stump or stone invisible in the mirrors, and on this car in this position the aim is correct.

Just bought the Ventura Kit which comes badged as ILMotorsport, there are no instructions. The YouTube video is what they rely on.

I did ask MX5parts what they would charge to fit it and they offered me 2hrs at £49.95/hr which I thought was a good offer. However after watching the video and chatting to people at the Eastbourne show I’ve convinced myself it should be easy enough to do.

I’ll let you know if I run into problems.

 

 

 

Thanks for the info in the last two posts gents, much appreciated.

RichardFX - I’ve looked at the parts that you provided links to and gone for similar but different options but technically your solution and mine are the same. If I do need a voltage converter I’m intending to incorporate this into the head unit adapter. I had seen the Mazda 3 forum thread and gone through it in great detail. Very useful info. I had already come to the conclusion that taking power from the reversing light was not a viable option as I didn’t want to cut into vehicle wiring and also it doesn’t work!

Richamp - Thanks for the info on the Ventura instructions, or rather lack of. At least if I provide some instructions then I’ll be doing something right. The video does look very helpful but there is rather a lot of heavy handed work going on there. I’m sure we would be a bit more careful with our own cars. I think that MX5Parts are being a bit cheeky with their quote of two hours labour when their listing says ‘if our Operations Manager can fit one in less than 45 minutes then anyone can!’. Nice to hear you got the encouragement to do it yourself, sure you won’t have any problems. One thing I would suggest is that when you pull the head unit out it might be an idea to do a test connection of the kit before running the cable and drilling the hole for the camera. In the unlikely event that you had a faulty kit it would be heartbreaking to have to take it all out again.

Keep the comments coming.

Thanks

Paul

I guess a more relevant how-to is on the Miata site for OEM camera, (adapt from LHD to RHD as required). I almost gave up reading before the end, there is a lot to it!  There is also has a cleaner that can be fitted (How can mere puffs of air work with UK grime though?)

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=636832

Two hours? never.

Done it today, it took about 2hrs most of which was going through the video. I can see how it only take 45mins if you are familiar with this kind of job.

The only thing I couldn’t do was get the dash boardcowling off as I couldn’t get the plug out. In the end I just took the cable the other way so no problem.

It worked straight off.

I thought the quote from MX5parts was ok because they have also to take the risk of damage when doing it so not bad to my mind at least.

 

 

£100 to fit is pretty reasonable to be fair. There are a few people in the states now having issues with the Ventura cameras though, glad I went with OEM.

 

I installed the Ventura a year ago today and it’s absolutely fine, I have seen a couple of reports in the US of condensation or fogging which were replaced without trouble within the 2 year warranty. If something happens out of warranty you can pick up a camera alone for around $20.

Interesting to know. Mental note to self, stick a camera in a glass of water overnight to confirm the waterproof claim.

 

That’s good to know, thanks for that.

 

 

Unfortunately my one died after 3 months of UK weather  lLink to my FB post and pic.

 

Sorry people, mine was no way waterproof.