New potential MX5 project. Advice needed

General Discussion Forums MX-5 Chat
1

So after doing “little bits” on my cars over the years I have wanted a bit more of an in-depth project to help me learn. I’ve wanted an MX5 project for a long time and have found a really cheap one and I’m after some advice about it, mainly to see if you guys with experience would think this project would be too much for a first timer.

So it’s a 2001 black 1.6 icon, 5 speed, 90k miles, not too sure on history yet, there is rust on one of the rear arches but supposedly it’s solid everywhere else.

It is a rolling shell, literally everything has been stripped from the car. The guy has said that this was going to be used as a project to fit a V8 into but no longer has the time and is selling everything. So it’s a stripped 1.6 which comes with everything ready to go back on: engine, gearbox, dif, all interior, running gear, soft top, exterior etc. Literally everything.

So my plan would be either put it all back together as is as a “mini” project and in the future fit a turbo kit, intercooler, clutch, management system, LSD, probably keep the 5 speed (would consider changing to 6 if possible), better brakes, suspension, wheels, exhaust, roll bars and then the cosmetics. Or, find a 1.8 engine and first start by fitting the 1.8 , 6 speed gearbox, LSD and whatever else needs doing and then in the future again, look at adding the turbo and all the other bits mentioned above.

So I’m trying to figure out is what I’m asking of myself too much as a first project? Are the MK2 MK5’s a good/easy car to work on? What would be my best option for the project out of the ones I have mentioned? I do have some mechanical experience and do enjoy a challenge.

Any advice is much appreciated.

2

To be completely honest, looking at what you intend to achieve and the potential of this MK2 car, it is completely unsuitable.
My advice is find a reasonably priced MK2.5 SVT sport, something 2001/2 with the torsen diff.
The MK2 you are considering, even if you were paid to take it away has every conceivable problem and limited potential.
You need to give yourself at least the equivalent of a rolling start with this sort of project to have any chance of achieving the intended results.

Good luck!

3

And that is why I became a member of this forum, thank you!

To be honest that was my original plan, to get a mk2.5 svt sport with the 1.8 engine, six speed and Torsen diff and then go from there. Only considered this as I could get it for around £100 for everything. I will wait for a while until I have the money to go for something more suitable.

So the MK2.5, is 2001/2002 and onwards? Should I be aware of any problems to look out for when looking at a MK 2.5 SVT? The main things I know about is rust/corrosion on the sills, arches and front chassis rails.

So something more like this would be best? Hopefully not with as much rust and not sure if this has the Torsen diff, but just as an example: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F164083653926

Thanks again

4

I’ve had both my Mk1 & 2002 Mk2.5 metal-resto’d and then some over the past 6 years, so I’ve been there. Expensively. The photos still give me the vapours.
By your description, and your proposed intentions Berger, I have to 100% agree with Rhino.
In my opinion, that car will be an expensive exercise in futility.
How easy these cars are to work on is directly determined by how far gone they are.
The tubs are complex and some panels very expensive if indeed obtainable.
Far better to get, as Rhino points out, a decent marginal runner in need of the “usual” rear sill/wing & engine bay chassis rail rot. And that will just be for a kick off.
Mechanically? Not beyond the scopes of basic skills & knowledge.
As ever the big issue with 5’s is never going to be a bust engine, G’box or chassis components, but the state of the structural “tub” is key to viabilty.
This is why there is a huge supply of bits, given tubs have rotted out around them.
Better off with a 2002 and before SVT by the way.
The expensive LSD in the 2003 versions are known to “be of cheese”.
I’ll post up some photos if you say it’s OK but I don’t want to be rude and take your thread over.

5

Thanks for the advice! Yes, going to stay away from this one.

What engine is in the 2002 before the SVT, does it have a name like “SVT” if that makes sense? Just so I know what I’m looking for.

Does the 2002 still have an LSD? Does that particular LSD have a name?

6

The 2002 mill is the SVT.
If you get a 2001/2002 1840cc it’ll have it all bolted on anyway. Or should.
1840cc, they claimed a blob chart ( bench factory kid-on) BHP figure of 146 bhp but they won’t have that now with age.
The mills are bullet proof…if…looked after. I’ve done annual 5k oil changes on mine for 15 years and it’s as new at 105,000 miles. In fact, it’s only just nicely loosening up.
Cannot recall the name of the LSD, but anyhow the one to avoid is the weak 2003 ones.
You can tell the VVT mill when you look at it from the front.
The left-hand camcover lobe is bigger than the other.

7

Brilliant, thanks again. I will keep an ear to the ground for a 2002 1.8 SVT with LSD and update here when this idea finally comes to fruition.

Cheers!

8

Pleasure. Good hunting.

9

The car, with everything is £100. If you have the means to get it to your address, its a no brainer. Even if the car turns out to get rotted, there is hundreds of pounds of parts.

Everything will bolt back together easy. With everything out, its super easy to check the chassis rails. They might well be good considering the seller had picked it as a V8 project.

A stripped car is way easier to weld than a car that is fully dressed. Most of the bill for chassis leg repair will be getting stuff out of the way, if they are bodging a plated repair, or engine out if they are doing it properly. Or do it yourself.

The BRG car is a total rot box, with a ragged interior. You need the 1.6 interior to tidy it up. A pair of seats are alone £100-200.

Between the two, the B6 motor is stronger (1.6). The 1.8 BP can get a reputation for oil consumption, thanks to sticking oil scraper rings. Plus the oil pump can block on neglected cars, toasting the engine.

A ground up “light weight” NB 1.6 would be a great project. In Japan, tuners lie the 1.6 version of the NB (google TD-1001R), and Mazda chose the 1.6 for their factory clubman model, the NR-A.

TD-1001R

1023×439 63.8 KB

NR-A

If you are thinking about a proper restoration, a rolling shell is a good start, as half the job is already done for you.

10

Thanks for the detailed reply.

The guy actually got back to me and he’s having the car and all the bits picked up by a scrapyard tomorrow. I’m surprised as I thought in parts it would be worth so much more than what they would offer.

11

Have alook at brightwells auction site for next Wednesday. The Mk2.5 they have might be just waht you want and save a lot of work and money. NTDWM but it may help.
Rgds., Steve

12

Hi Steve, is ther any chance you could send me the link to the auction as I can’t seem to find it? Thank you!

13

https://www.brightwells.com/lot-details/100012267

I assume its this one.

14

@Berger96

If 96 referrs to the year you were born and not your age, then you’ve a few years ahead of you to finish the project.

However, I personally feel that it takes a special kind or person to build a car, I don’t think it would take much to become dispondant, can’t see an end in sight and give up.

I’ve been waiting 40 odd years to get around to building something, now in my late 50’s I doubt that I ever will.

Buy something to tinker with, something that you can enjoy driving at the same time, it’s much more fun.

15

Thanks!

16

I see what you mean.

I’ve had a few projects over the years so far (not quite to this planned extent) and sometimes I actually prefer the project and learning part of it over the driving part. We will see.

It’s not too late, I’m sure you will get a project soon :slight_smile: (if time and money allows).

17

Interesting read this. Did you ever get sorted Berger96?