Just checked the reservoir again and the fluid levels are bang on the high mark, which is where it’s been since I’ve owned the car. The contacts for the reservoir level switch all look clean and secure but I gave them a bit of contact cleaner anyway. I also took the opportunity to get the missus to press the brake and clutch pedals while I had the cap off and there was no noticeable dip (just light movement on the fluid surface).
Does anyone know where the handbrake switch is located just in case there’s some corrosion around it.
My money is on a dodgy switch, either foot pedal or handbrake.
I assume the rear brake lights are working properly - ie are illuminated when pedal is engaged AND when the dash warning light is on
I think the fact you have owned for 3 years and about 12k miles is irrelevant unless the pads / discs were new when you bought the car AND you are a complete track day hooligan to get through pads in 12k miles
My good lady, who has been using the car for the last couple of months waiting for her new CX-5 to be built, does have form in that area including taking the pads to the metal in under 20k miles on her last Mazda 6. You’d think she’d have grown out of it as she’s a pensioner.
Just put the Jag (2004 XJ8) in for front pads and discs. Stuck caliper diagnosed. Both front calipers (twin piston) replaced (Jag sell them in pairs). Bill came to £800. Ouch. For that, I got Apec pads…
I will never complain about the price of MX5 brakes ever again.
I’m not doing it. The garage has already done it. Jaguar calipers are £160 each new, so a bargain compared to Mazda. Thats’s about 1.5 hours labour each (£90-100 per hour), so I don’t think there is any real saving paying a garage to rebuild calipers rather than just replacing them. One caliper was serviceable, but with 120k miles on it.
