Drive up on some motorhome ramps.
Jack the rear and place a concrete block under each wheel.
Level with plywood.
Chock both front and rear wheels.
Safe as houses and enough room to get under and do what is required. 
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But not the best for draining out the cr*p.
The only time I’ve ever asked a garage to do an oil change on any of my cars in the last 20 years
was a couple of years ago at around this time of year. The weather was absolutely freezing, and the wind up past the driveway felt like a wind chill of -5. My then daily, a Golf, needed it’s oil change, and as I looked out of the front window…, I thought…, “… **** it., someone else can do it.”.
So down to my local garage it went. I already had the oil and filter, so all I paid was half an hour’s labour. £30 well spent.
Before I took the car in, I specifically asked if they used those suction tubes. They said no…, they do a proper job.
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I wouldn’t use a suction tube either.
Each to there own of course.
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Well I’ve bought everything now , including torque wrench and filter extraction wrench etc, so I’m committed , I might get the use of a car lift where son works, depending on lockdown rules etc .
I’m sure I’ll get a great feeling of achievement after, and think “great I done that myself” or I’ll say to my wife " bllcks to that , it’s the garage next time ! 
Thanks for tips and advice
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I used to do regular oil changes on a FIAT Bravo I once owned and also managed a coolant change on a previous mk2 mx5. My advice would be allow plenty of time, things take longer than you might think. Have plenty of rags for spillages and have your wife on standby armed with plasters for when you draw blood. Good luck… 
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A bit late, but I found these very good.
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For £25, get a pair of ramps like these:
https://www.arnoldclarkautoparts.com/products/2-tonne-standard-car-ramp-pair?variant=36213083144345¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2020-09-08&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-BhZSrIpMFc9E0qq7cYUePziEib__Xjegz2jPhAcygeTCgimGvc-QxoCwsUQAvD_BwE
plus the extensions for another £10. You will need the extensions.
I got a second hand set of ebay for £20 or so and can not believe how often I’ve used them. Makes any job where you need access as simple as reversing three feet.
I have bought plenty tools when I needed them, and very few turn out to be a waste of money - they all get used and re-used; and if you want to increase your enjoyment you have got to have tools that work rather than work against you.
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I did look at ramps, including the plastic ones, although they don’t look very high and I would want to get right under, especially when I come to clean off all the crud and any rust from under the car prior to treating it in the near future.
The higher metal ramps look ideal, but as suggested I would need the extensions as I don’t fancy revving the car up a steep ramp and getting it wrong or off centre, 
, they’re still something I met get yet
We sold the cougar ramps at work ok but check there not buckled also don’t go anywhere near the quoted weight limit,we had to send a lot back.
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Fair comment, as looking at them online, some definitely look more sturdy than others, particularly the framework supporting the tyres, because if I’m crawling under it, I want something heavy duty , as well as axle stands etc 
Never mind scrambling under the car to get at the sump plug. Buy a Pella pump and suck the old oil out through the dipstick tube. It takes a while but its clean and safe. If you don’t think this is a good idea as it doesn’t get the last drops of oil out be aware that many garages drain the sump this way!
The oil filter cartridge is accessible from under the bonnet - no need to get underneath.
From my experience on a Mark 3, I would say that is impossible to get the filter off from underneath the bonnet.
I don’t think you can even see it let alone get to it.
(Happy to be corrected).
Likewise, Mazda fitted an oil drain plug for obvious reasons.
Just my opinion of course.
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Can’t comment on a Mk3 - mine’s a Mk 1 Eunos. The filter is awkward to reach but manageable.
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Hi, The thread is about a Mark 3 as per the heading.
Just one little addition to all the help you have been given here and that is you should always warm the engine before draining the oil out, what that does is allows the oil to drain better and the impurities suspended in it to come out, as an aside to that it also burns your hand when the inevitable happens. 
I can’t help you with the jacking of a Mk3 but on my 2, I jack the whole car up on four axle stands (I have six, but I don’t want to boast) and then carry out a full service, then I put the sump plug back in, so it gets a long drain.
, and I think I will be using my wife’s marigold gloves, although she doesn’t know that yet 
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Hiya, if you’re going to the trouble of raising the car to access the sump plug, I fitted one of these,
http://fumotousa.com/about-fumoto-valves.php
I have a short length of hose that fits on the end and feeds used oil into whichever receptacle you use when draining.
I find it very good Still have the oil filter to contend with obviously.
Barrie
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Give them a wipe down with the oily rag and she won’t even know.
By the way, wipe a bit of oil around the rubber seal before screwing the filter on.
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That’s new to me, I’ll look into those
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That looks great Barrie, where did you obtain it, which model and how much?