Once you have adjusted up the handbrake on the caliper so it is just off the disc on both sides, assuming that everything else as been done correct and right? your next step is the adustment of the slack in the handbrake lever cable which as been said needs to be adjusted to 7>9 clicks,with the handbrake lever on check that the disc is solid, let the handbrake lever off and check that the disks run free, i persaonally find this easier with the back end on axle stands with the wheels off and the front wheels chocked.
If your roadster is fitted with ABS ,you most not get any air into the ABS pump when bleeding , changing fluid or a caliper
Unsure about this self adjustment tho Rich, on the handbrake?
The footbrake is self adjusting when you pump it and throughout the pad life. The allen key adjustment sets the initial clearance for the handbrake auto adjuster which is inside the piston. I don’t know if it’s possible to have a scenario where extreme incorrect handbrake adjustment would hamper the footbrake (by say the adjuster being wound fully back then trying to get the piston to work using the footbrake with worn thin pads) but wouldn’t think so.
Before going further check the handbrake cable levers in the calipers are both set fully to their off position. It is possible that if the handbrake has been applied when the allen key adjuster is very slack the lever can go past full on and jam on. Twiddling the allen key in an attempt to release the brake may then have no effect, so do make sure both sides are back to their stops in the direction the return springs are trying to send them before making the allen key adjustment. If you find it won’t go back check the cable has not been overtightened and slacken it at the handbrake lever in the car, return the caliper levers to their stops and go from there.
Err on the slack side, 1/2 turn back from touching with the allen key adjuster, it will adjust itself in use but will overheat if you set it too tightly, and readjust the handbrake cable to 7-9 clicks. Get someone to press the pedal whilst you turn each wheel to check they turn freely then lock with the footbrake as you’d expect and that the pedal is firm. Check the handbrake similarly then short road test and check for overheating/working ok.
If you would feel comfortable driving the car to Eastbourne one Saturday, I would be more than happy to put your car up on the ramp and run through , check and adjust the brakes
I’m going to leave the N/S, partly because “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” and partly because I have no room to get round to that side in the garage! I am pretty sure the handbrake caliper levers are working OK, handbrake pulls them on and I had to loosen them a long way at the handbrake lever to get the cable off it (suggesting they were going all the way back to rest on the stops.
When you say 1/2 a turn back from touching - do you count touching as “hub won’t turn”?
Thanks for all the help guys - working on Sat unfortunately so can’t get to Eastbourne.
PS - can somebody confirm that a 1/4 turn spin is about right for transmission drag?
Hi, just touching, not hard on so it won’t turn, just enough so you start to feel/hear the extra drag as you turn the hub. Do remember to put a couple of wheel nuts on with washers if needed to hold the disc firmly against the hub whilst doing this.
Yes, if you mean about 1/4 turn of quite free’ish play before it goes to big drag when turning the hub, sounds about right to me.
and partly because I have no room to get round to that side in the garage! I am pretty sure the handbrake caliper levers are working OK, handbrake pulls them on and I had to loosen them a long way at the handbrake lever to get the cable off it (suggesting they were going all the way back to rest on the stops.