Having got the siezed drivers side calipher problem on a 1.6 and having picked up a set of 1.8 calipers and carriers over winter.
I have refurbished the 1.8 calipers, so weather is getting better and I set about swapping 1.6 caliper and carriers for 1.8 calipers, carrier, EBC discs and pads.
Both the 1.8’s are marked L and R but the right hand 1.6 caliper is the same as 1.8 left caliper, the 1.6 caliper slider bolts / pins are opposite.
I am also swapping the flexihoses for Goodridge as I found a good price on the back cover of STHT this month.
When ever I have done this job on my other cars I put a plastic bag on the brake master cylinder reservoir and put the cap back on.
This stops the majority of the brake fluid coming out the hose/ union when its disconnected, this was not a quick job as the old flexihose would not
move even after the push clip was removed and I lost most of brake fluid. I final got it to move with some persuasion and a G clamp.
I have had to stop on the brake replacement as I am awaiting dust boots for the lower wishbone and trackrod end.
Has anybody got a tip to stop brake fluid leaking out when I change the other flexihoses?
Thank you for info on copper grease / red rubber grease.
Right, I managed to get a good look at the brakes on Sunday. But first I should thank all those who’ve contributed advice on this thread, you’ve been brilliant and I’m sorry I haven’t had chance to respond to each one individually.
So far I’ve removed the caliper but left it connected to the hose for now. Then sliders were fine, so my assumption is therefore that the problem is with the piston.
I’ve posted some pics below, what you think of the condition of the discs and pads (if you can tell at all from photos). bearing in mind Kwit-Fit said they needed replacing due to heat damage. Is there a minimum width for the discs? The pads are more shiny on the lower part — is that normal?
Can you tell anything about the condition of the piston from the photo? I was on my own so didn’t have anyone to press the brakes to move the cylinder out – I’ll hopefully be able to do that on Saturday. The boot looks like it’s got a small split so I guess it will need replacing.
Can’t see anything wrong with the discs or the pads - they aren’t worn at all, assuming the disc rotates flat and hasn’t actually warped (unlikely).
Brake hose looks fine too, but I wouldn’t be surprised that the caliper piston is a bit rusty under the rubber and might well be seizing slightly.
The piston is already some way out, so get a big G cramp and see if you can push it back into the caliper easily. Alternatively some large spanners placed across the piston face and then lever against the fingers of the caliper should move the piston but its a bit fiddly that way.
If yes, try pumping the footpedal about three times (no more, don’t want to risk pushing the piston all the way out just yet) and see if the pedal moves easily to the floor and that the piston comes some way out.
If you can’t feel any real resistance at the foor pedal and the piston can be pushed back into the caliper quite easily then the caliper is fine.
Hi Steve, a couple of layers of cling film under the master cap are thin enough to make a good seal.
Another idea, I’ve never done on this car but think should work, is a stick between seat and pedal to hold down the brake pedal halfway as the first part of the movement closes the port to the reservoir.
Hi Andy, They look quite likely re-usable. The disc min thickness is stamped on the edge, just out of sight before MM in the pic, and the pads are nearly full thickness though they may need bedding in a bit if they’ve been running at a slight angle.
Looking at the pic of the caliper the piston seems to be coming out at an angle, more at the picture top. If that’s the case, that is the side which applies pressure to the pads at the inner part of the disc face. That part of the discs and pads show signs of having been doing the braking so that would fit with a siezed piston being forced out.
Remove the piston and go from there but there’s a good chance a new piston and seal and a good clean up will have them all back together with minimum expense.
Thanks, Andy, Steve and Rich, all very helpful replies .
Pleased to hear the disks, pads and hose look okay!
Rich, your comments about the piston coming out at an angle is very interesting and would explain uneven wear on the pads. I’m ordering a refurb set (seals etc) so while I’m about it, I may as well order a new piston. For the sake of 18 quid it would be silly not to replace it really as I don’t want this problem coming back later in the year.
I have used the cling film and had no joy, but I do like the stick and the pedal. I will get the wife to hold it down when I change the rear flexi hoses.
I’m going to replace the piston and seal at the weekend so this is only for interest, but I pushed the piston out a little tonight and took a quick pic of it in the dark on my phone. There’s quite a bit of rust in there. It wasn’t difficult to squeeze the piston out with the brake pedal though, so perhaps not seized just sticking.
I’ve removed the piston but now need to remove the caliper from the hose. The bolt seems pretty solid, is it okay to bolt the caliper back in place and use a breaker bar on the bolt? I don’t want to damage the caliper fixings or sliders. Just checking
I don’t see a problem with bolting caliper back up and using a a socket and bar on the banjo bolt that holds the flexihose to the caliper.
Probably a good idea to put some cling film over the brake resorvoir or as I was advised put blue tack over the union end or wedge the brake pedal down.
I don’t see a problem with bolting caliper back up and using a aocket and bar on the banjo bolt that holds the flexihose to the caliper.
Probably a good idea to put sime cling film over the brake resorvoir or as I was advised put blue tack ovwr the union end or wedge the brake pedal down.
Job done! Replaced the piston and the seals, refitted the caliper and bled the brakes (copiously). Tested for leaks then took it for a spin … carefully at first! It’s braking fine, no pulling to one side even under hard braking.
The only thing is that the pad springs were missing and I suspect KwikFit didn’t refit them, so I’ll have to order some in.
I’ve only done the corner that was seized. The other side is rubbing a little, but they probably didn’t re-fit the springs on that side either. But now I know what I’m doing, I’ll order a piston and seals for that side as well so that I’ve got matching new ones on both sides.
A big thanks, of course, to everyone who gave me advice, it gave me the confidence to have a go. I’m now feeling very pleased with myself!
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