Hi Girls n Boys. Took the MK1 to the MOT station the other day and in the course of the tester’s prodding and poking a great big chunk of filler and some kind of rubberised glue fell on to the floor from the driver’s side rear wheel arch, it has revealed a view of the reasonably rust free inside of the sill.
1 What should I treat the sill innards with to prevent further rust?
2 I want a new panel to weld into place to replace the previous owners “Cocky” solution but the internet keeps coming up with panels that cost £80ish which seems super expensive.
Give your best advice G’s & B’s
Cheers!
Russ
Russ,
You may be aware I’ve re-metalled both our 5’s over the last few years, the Mk1 only last year with wings & sills. In my view, these panels are actually cheap. The problem is you often are left with a large portion you did not need.
If I tell you a pair of Mk2.5 full OEM chassis rails were £320.00 each around 6 years back, you may see why I hold this view.
Anyway, I’d rather point you to Gareth’s “Mx5 Restorer” You tube videos because you will see what a good fabricator can do, as well as using pattern panels.
Opinions will differ all day, but it reads that your 5 is not a basket case & relatively localised?
As for anti rot stuff? There goes another riot of opinions but for me Rustoline, Dinitrol, or Bilt Hamber anti rot products have served me best over the years. I do not like Waxoil, as it can dry out , crack, and allow moisture ingress unless you re-do it every other year.
Have to agree Russ - stupid money for the sill end caps on a MK1. I see that autolink have the MK2 variant which appears more complicated at about half the price.
Given the variability of repair requirement and price I would encourage you or the welder doing the work to fabricate your own.
Realistically it’s a £20 - 30 panel at most in my opinion.
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The panels are worth the money, even if you don’t use them all. In regards to metal prep I’ve not been able to fault Bilt hambers hydrate products but there’s no substitute for cutting out all the rot and cleaning up the area to clean bare metal followed by a suitable zinc rich weld through primer.
Thanks guys! I fabricated a whole boot floor for a triumph herald once, including all the corrugations, took me about 12 hours labour to make the component then scared the crap out of me as i welded it into place in case I buggered it up. I think your probably right on balance to buy the panel and quit griping. Thanks for the advice about the antitrust stuff as well. Once again Thanks guys!
Cheers Russ
Hi Russ, if you made that panel for the herald you should have not problem with this. Though £80.00 is alright for decent panels these days.
I’ve used both pre made and fabricated my own in the past. As others have said you often waste a fair bit of the pre done stuff and the steel can sometimes be abit thin.
If you’ve got the time and skill knock one up from a sheet of Zintec steel and have the satisfaction of being able to sit back and admire your handywork.
Otherwise chop the rot out, make a template and cut the new panel to shape to keep as much original metal as possible.
Least you’ve caught it early enough to save your sills.
Also Bilt Hamber cavity wax is excellent for sills. Follow with some Epoxy primer to your bare metal repairs and some decent stone chip paint or top coat and decent under seal again bilt hamber do their own which I’m yet to try
I’ve decided to buy the panel and go with the Bilt Hamer or Dinitrol treatments. The guy who owns the garage has said I can use his covered forecourt to do fettling and welding, I don’t have a garage at home unfortunately and the old girl is “residing” in a dark, dusty, but very dry, barn. So when this Corona bllcks is done I’m going to glue the new panel in place with the welder!!
Thanks for your advice guys, much appreciated!!
Stay safe!
Cheers!
Russ
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