I know about the waterproofing as I thought exactly the same when lifting the fuse box cover and there is a large male connector with this gunge on the back of it . This is blackening on the internals of the connector. If chronically but slightly over loaded, the fuse doesn’t come in to it. Classic example is the earth wire on the rear light cluster of my TT. Fine for about ten years then gives up.
It’s actually on the feed wire (white/red) rather than the ground, but is effectively the same thing.
Managed to get the broken connector out of the socket so that was a bonus.
Whether the actual cause or just a result of me getting the connector to budge I don’t know but I don’t recall the pump sound, and I had all the plastics behind the seats out for another reason, so here’s hoping.
Whatever, it needs another fuel pump body……which arrived today.
Fuel connector at the pump is one of those that needs a tool that slips inside the connector,hoping I can find a workaround rather than wait more days for eBay.
Thanks for the help👍
I’ve undone those connectors with picks, screwdrivers and a slightly larger bit of plastic pipe because i can never find the set I bought to do them properly.
Yes, it can be done with picks or shaped barbecue sticks but it’s very awkward in the shed on the replacement; let alone in the confines of the car. Found a bit of plastic that I’m whittling into shape hopefully……
Success!
Broken connector? You said you had a continuous circuit to the fuel pump, so what connector is broken? Have you tried bypassing this connector?
Read the thread again. Posts don’t seem to be numbered but all you need to know is there earlier.
Yeah, but have you tried bypassing this connector? If the earth is broken just put your own ground on it. Give the fuel pump a direct 12v feed to determine whether it functions or not before you replace it, surely? Or you might find you replace it and it still won’t work because of a wiring issue.
No I haven’t. Because I found a broken electrical connector on the fuel pump, this has to be resolved before moving on. As I said previously, this could be the source of the fault or just a result of me removing a stubborn connector. Whatever the original fault may be, this has to be sorted.
Yes, I can do continuity tests on the wiring but it’s not going to make Jack all difference without a functioning fuel pump.
Sod’s Law says I filled up just before this incident. First attempt at removing the fuel pump assembly had fuel close to spilling into the cabin area.
I’m working on a public road so I spent a couple of hours getting six gallons into approved containers.
I’m reading around this evening because the whole assembly doesn’t just slip out. It looks like it needs to be compressed to get the clearance needed and it would be easy to damage the fuel sender which is quite delicate.
Here a pic of my replacement fuel pump assembly. The one in my car has one of those pins missing, probably because of overheating over time. There sadly isn’t a workaround so replacement is the only sensible option…
Having filled up just beforehand does seem one hell of a coincidence
It’s does indeed. But today I’ve had a chance to strip the pump assembly and stare into the bottom of the tank. All very clean.
With no air line a blocked fuel line would have be a tow-to-a-garage sort of problem, so that’s a relief.
With the actual pump in my hand it was an easy test: just give it 12v in the correct direction…… It’s f@cked.
Just need to check the replacement assembly works (pump fine) just a bit more work on the level sender. The original was fine so maybe just move it over? Be nice to check. Original has a linear change of a few ohms over its movement and it was working until my Lidl Moment.
The thing I’ve taken away from this is the surprise of all the wires and normal electrical connectors that happily work, submerged in petrol. In fact they thrive! No oxidation and even the wires seem more flexible than those in air.