I would definitely recommend some in the boot. I took the boot carpet out and couldn’t believe how resonant the boot floor is. Being a cheap-skate, I gaffer-taped strips of laminate flooring insulation between the high points of the stiffening ribs pressed into the steel. I then laid a sheet over the lot.
It doesn’t transform the car into a limousine but it does help
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@999to5 Did you take the plastic trim out of the boot before applying the deadening, or is lifting the carpet sufficient?
I just took the carpet out but taking the trim out as well may allow you to do a more comprehensive job.
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I forgot to mention I installed some sound deadening material inside the door panels when I changed the speakers. You can get pieces in there when the speakers are out that cover around half the door (bought in around A4 size pieces) just press them in. For a comprehesive job remove that inner door panel and do the lot.
How much has it improved the sound, who knows but I reckon changing speakers alone has improve the quality of the sound so yes it’s helped I guess.
And as I type I am suffering with sciatic nerve pain, car fettling stuff is out for a few days. I do remember suffering after adjusting that clutch pedal 
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Yes, a ten minute job. BUT only if you can fit into the space and know what you are trying to do…
I used a bathroom stool outside the car next to the driver’s seat (seat all the way back) to support my hips and posterior, entered on my back with both arms ahead of me, work light in place, and both spanners to hand.
Undoing the locknut for the first time without breaking the support bracket or pedal link might be difficult, having good spanners helps. I was able to position them so I merely needed to close them like a pair of scissors, it took both hands to do this!
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I’ve just discovered that I’m not nearly limber enough to do this. Will ask my friendly local garage to do it.
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I lined the boot floor with heat and noise reducing foam and taking the plastic trim out is really easy.
FWIW I’ve read sound insulation is pretty much a waste of time but the heat in the boot was threatening to spoil my shopping in the summer
I bought Noico sold through Amazon after a bit of research, I used the 4mm as I didn’t want to foul the rest of the boot trim fitting, this went nder the carpet and behind the trim no problem, I still need to do the boot lid (black car) to help with the heat
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TKXCN6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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My jury is still out on undersealing many general forum users don’t think rust issue cars like mx5/'z’s should be undersealed unless you can prove to yourself that there isn’t already rust in your undercarriage. I’ve avoided buying if a seller states the car has been “fully undersealed”. I know edd china doesn’t like it.
It depends on how you go about doing it. If you just get your car and slop some under seal on it without doing any prep work then yeah, its a recipe for disaster.
If however you go to a professional company who will strip the undercarriage back to base and fully inspect for rust and put right where any is found etc, then do a professional seal, cavity seal etc etc then it’d consider it essential preventative maintenance.
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I reckon every little bit helps and it all adds up to promote reduced road noise and increased refinement.
There is no one magic bullet though, just lots of incremental steps.
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A pair of long nose vice grips clamped onto the flats on the rod will help enormously.
Then you only have the spanner on the lock nut to worry about slipping off.
As said, if you can then arrange them to undo/do up in a scissors fashion, you should be able to manage with one hand, especially if you are left handed.
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