Surface Rust On Driveshafts / Uprights

Technical Area Cleaning & Detailing
2

Hi All,

I was taking a look under the Indiana on Fri.

Its all very clean apart from the halfshafts and the uprights that have surface rust on them.

I take some parts were better protected than others.

Because of the low miles and how original she is I don’t want to start dismantling so I have been looking at products such as Fertan.

Reading the blurb I can brush this stuff on and over 24 hours it will convert the rust leaving a zinc phosphate coating.

Has anybody used this or a similar product? if so how did it go?

I’m trying to keep the car as original as possible, so far Ive replaced the tyres with the modern equivalent Bridgestones and I’m planning to sort out the brakes.

I have a thing about looking through the wheels and seeing nice clean shiny brakes (my XJ40)

 

But that’s another up and coming thread

 

 

3

This is a good easy to use product.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACF-50-Motorcycle-Automotive-Metal-Anti-Corrosion/dp/B000P1C8UO

 

I treat my rear sub frame and suspension components with ACF50 on a yearly basis.

Its clear when applied and will prevent further corrosion.

 

I spray a small amount into a container and brush it on, it goes a long way. One can will last for a number of years.

 

Do not spray it near your brake discs. Much safer to brush it onto required components.

4

Fertan is a similar product but using differnet specific chemicals to to Bilthamber Hydrate 80, Dinitrol RC900, Jenolite and many other rust converters. They all claim to be better than the others, therefore at least one or more of the manufacturers of the rust convertors is wrong.

I usually use Hydrate 80 not saying it is better or worse than the others and most others on here who get their hands dirty will do the same.

If you read the manufacturers website re Fertan and most of the other manufacturers of these products it is just part of an anti corrossion process. Do not go to the bother of cleaning the surfaces and applying it unless you are going to prime and top coat the area if you want it to look original or apply some other products as the “Fertan” webite advises.

With regards to the poster who advised ACF 50, it appears he knows better tha the manufacturer of ACF50 see their advice below.

“Corrosion Block – Is the Industrial / Marine version of ACF-50. The main difference being a marginally thicker film and better suited where there may be dissimilar metals and / or salt water spray – so more suitable for Automotive/Marine/Industrial use.”

5

I just purchased a new mk4 Artic and plan on every year doing the same ACF50 I’ll get to hire a ramp local for 1 hour then wd40 and clean underside up all salt off then ACF50 will go on

6

I just purchased a new mk4 Artic and plan on every year doing the same ACF50 I’ll get to hire a ramp local for 1 hour then wd40 and clean underside up all salt off then ACF50 will go on

7

I just purchased a new mk4 Artic and plan on every year doing the same ACF50 I’ll get to hire a ramp local for 1 hour then wd40 and clean underside up all salt off then ACF50 will go on

8

I use Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and find it brilliant compared with similar other products I had used on previous projects.