Hmm… Slightly disconcerting…
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Yes, I am suggesting that.
About the only tool you really need would be a wire brush to get some of the crustiness off.
After that , it’s just brushes you need. I used cheapies from a Poundshop.
I did do rather more than what is the standard undersealing, in that I used an aerosol rustkiller called RC900 inside cavities, then followed that up with Dynax S50 ( in the cavities ). For rustkilling on general underbody, I used Kurust, then followed that with a marine resin antirust primer called Bondaprimer, then 2 coats of dark grey chassis paint…, THEN…
Waxoyl.
But to do a basic Waxoyl underseal job, which is what you’ll get for the few hundred pound jobs…, is straightforward and easy. You do have to quite like the smell. It disappears after a few days…
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I don’t understand why you are using Waxoil anyway. There are far superior products available these days.
I have seen some of MX5 City’s work, and they wouldn’t be touching my car.
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And mine neither after reading this thread…ever…
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Hmm, I’m beginning to wish I’d have asked this question prior to booking 🤦
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We have a 1992 Mini that has been treated with Waxoil from new and has ZERO rust so do NOT be put off Waxoil. Interestingly all the brake lines and rubber hoses are also original and we are talking 28 years of aging.
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“Un-book” then perhaps…?
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Not so simple.
I know them quite well, and I’ve used them several times in the past for things without disappointment, however these were purely mechanical jobs… There’s a massive disparity between these types of jobs which I describe as being quite binary, I.e they’re either right or wrong, with nothing in between, and jobs that are less so such as paintwork/aesthetics, or in this case undersealing.
What I mean is that if a part has failed and needs replacing, this can be done and if its been done correctly, all will be well and the proof will be in the starting running and driving… Its either successful or it isn’t.
With things like this however, arguably anyone can underseal a car but doing a proper thorough job is a different kettle of fish.
The problem I’ve got is that I personally have no reason to doubt them and I made a point of asking exactly what they do so I know what and where to check afterwards…
But if i cancel and have it done elsewhere then the next time I inevitably use them for something else, it will be just awkward.
I live like 7 miles away from them and know them on a first name basis 🤦
Just an opinion.
You seem to have conflicting views and opinions of the company and indeed the product they are using.
If you know them that well then they won’t take offence if you go and speak with them and discuss EXACTLY what they will be doing.
As you live quite close tell them that you want to see what they have done/doing in stages before they put all the bits back on that they take off.
If they disagree to that tell them you will be going else where.
But I don’t really see why they would refuse that request if they are a good company?
That is what I WOULD do.
A matter for your good self though. 
From new! That’s a different proposition to a twenty year old car.
For you chaps that might be interested in a DIY job.
Certainly worth looking at in my opinion.
or this one?
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There is only one place to get a proper job done and that’s by Chris Parkinson at beforenafter in Rugby. Had an 8 year old Discovery treated in 2008 and it’s still perfect 12 years on.
Many many other places to get work done to a completely competent standard without the premium price. A yard full of mx-5s does not make an mx5 specialist.
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Don’t get to hung up on with the anti waxoyl remarks. If you’d said you were having Dinitrol the Anti Dinitrol guys would have chipped in. Personal preference and there’s been enough debate on it. The reply’s about checking where it’s being applied are very relevant and where you should concentrate your efforts in getting the best job.
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In addition to the above comments, whatever is applied just remember…
If the surface rust, or if rust blisters are present aren’t treated (your favourite rust converter/treatment) then there’s a good chance the rust will poke through again at some point.
I went the DIY route on some areas of my car and ground away the rust, well as much as I could get to. Then treated the remaining surface rust, when happy then applied my preferred underseal coating, plenty of it.
Do they do this if you ask for an undersealing job, is treating the rust prior to application done?
I don’t know if I’ve done enough but I’ll be keeping a close watch on those areas.
Keeping an eye on it is a good point, may be it should have been in the service manual. Right after oil changes.
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I know MX5 City were used to assist in the restoration of a car with Practical Classics a couple of years ago (when they were in Mexborough). I used them for a couple of parts then and they were very helpful.
Unfortunately, my experience with the underseal couldn’t have been more different to the point of general disinterest. I asked about the warranty and any retreatment regime and was fobbed off.
They advised that I could unscrew the drain covers to get a brush down which of course you can’t on the PRHT as they are moulded and plastic soldered in place.
I noticed that a renovation done by Mike Brewer (on a decent car - possibly Alfa) used JR Classics in Askern Doncaster. He takes his time but does know his stuff on underseal. Just don’t look in the workshop when he’s got your pride and joy propped up on one side seemingly using anything he’s got to hand. He’s still here though and you get a 3 year inspection and warranty which I can testify he stands by.
Dropped my NC off today at PMW Chelmsford for it to be rust proofed with Dinitrol products. Guys are very professional and expect it to be a good job. I’ll update this when done.
Just seen this thread as I’m doing my NC next weekend, weather permitting. I’m with Trufflehunt on this one, it’s not difficult, done a few classics in my time. If you don’t have access to a ramp all you need is a good trolley jack that goes to 500mm or more and decent tall axle stands. With the car at around 520mm you have enough room too work. Loads of you tube videos and at least you will know you have done a good job. Half the fun of owning a 5 is the tinkering !
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What do you mean “half of the fun” for some of us it is most of it. 
It is very satisfying to know the job was done properly.
I found out this summer that the NB has an access hole to inspect and treat the sill area that rusts first and also that there is a another layer of sill accessible under the carpet. Now that’s what happens when you tinker.
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