Which MX5 ?

Considering an MX5 that I can drive on the road and also do a few mods so I can use it on track days. 

Which model will provide the best value model e.g. Mk 1, 2 or 2.5 ?

i am thinking a 1.8 and when I say best value, which one has the cheapest parts, most fun and less likely to disintegrate with rust. 

For example, the mk2 and 2.5 seem to have chassis rail issues in addition to sills but the 2.5 has the VVT engine. 

Views and advice appreciated

Originally my reason for buying an MX5 was that my other toy has no roof at all, ( Lotus 7 type car ) so I was looking for an autumn / winter / early spring car. Something that could be left on the drive,

be water tight, and have a heater, as although I’m willing to rough it a bit I can’t expect the wife to. A hard top was almost a necessity.

 

I favoured the 2.5 sport for the following reasons:-

146 bhp 1.8 vvt  engine, 6 speed gearbox, LSD, big brakes, and nice heated leather seats, for the wife you understand. I’m happy sitting on a beer crate. Wink 

Value was also part of the equation. £1300 is what I consider a bargain.

 

9 months mot, sills had been done by their local garage, and those rails were passable, but past experience tells me that all corrosion is better tackled before it gets bad,

so as work always gets slack in the month before and after Christmas I’ll forgo a Boxing day drive with the roof down and tackle the job myself. It can’t be that hard… can it ?

 

I’ve grown to love MiXi. It took all of about 20 miles to persuade me that if I sell one of my cars it will be the Seven and not the Five.

I’ve changed the 16" wheels for 15’s and fitted a roll bar and harness points so I too will be planning a track day in the future.

 

Good luck, and hope you find what you want.

Paul G

 

Thanks Paul.

I agree, the 2.5 with VVT engine sounds the best option.

 

Although rotting sills seem to be common across 1 an 2, the chassis rails appear to be isolated to the 2 and 2.5 - a but of a worry

Be mindful that there are some higher mileage Mk3’s coming down in price. I’ve seen a few around the £3.5k mark, which is about the same as a good Mk1 these days. As long as it was kept oiled-up and serviced regularly, the engine will still be bulletproof. Oil starvation is the main killer for these marques so that’s the main issue to watch out for. Drive a few, they’re good! :smiley:

What re the rust issues with the Mk 3 ?

If they have been at the coast or here in Scotland there can be a problem.

In most cases get it in the air take the wheel arch inner protectors off, clean and do with cavity wax and replace. Clean the rest of the underside and put on underbody wax or stone chip, you choice to the missed area.

Then get the front bumper off or access down there and do with stone chip or underbody wax as you cannot see it rusting.

Then do the scuttle grommets and examine the cooling system expansion tank and replace if there are any cracks. Make sure the engine oil is topped up and the gearbox and diff oils are changed.

Get the hood down and drive.

Thanks, appreciate waxoyling etc is great protection against future rust issues.

 

I was just wondering if the Mk3 had any common areas you can expect rust, like the sills on the mk 1 and 2 and the chassis rails on the mk 3

 

Rear arches and boot lid, from what I’ve seen/heard. I don’t think there’s as much reported on them yet as they’re a younger car.

Yes they rust if used near the coast and the wheel arches and the unprotected area that are missed at the factory sorry guys but you have to get your head under there and please do not post your opinions of rust problems on cars you have not got down and dirty with.

To the original poster who appears to want all the info without getting under the cars, sorry get yourself under some cars of the age you are considering buying.

Hi and welcome to the MX5 model dilemma!

The 5 makes a great “toy” car for fun and frolics on track and enjoyable top down touring - so here’s my opinion. 

First 5 was a MK2, but brought in haste, without too much research, just bright red sports car lust after the kids flew the nest, so had a beautiful 1.8 Sport limited edition (just about every 5 is a limited edition of some sort ). I was tempted by the hard top, the VERY nice 17" wheels and standard body kit - little did I know as I was thrashing it around Brands Hatch with the worlds biggest grin on my face during my first ever track day - that it was rapidly disolving beneath me. A trip to the garage for a new clutch (started slipping just before I arrived at Brands!) uncovered the extent of the tin worm. Both chassis rails were almost invisible, the sills were held together by the body kit and the rear arches had more bubbles than an aero bar.

So, quickly moved that on to someone who wanted to restore it and started searching for the next one (once bitten by the 5 bug and I was hooked for life). 

After traipsing all over the south of England I settled on my current MK2.5 1.8 Euphonic. I liked the seats, the wheels and the fact it’s got a LSD and the “big” brakes for the track. 

Two more track days and the next one booked with the MX5 club at Oulton Park next month, I would recommend the MK2.5. 

So, advice, drive a few, look hard and be prepared to grovel around on the floor (much to my long suffering wife’s dismay) to find the best one you can that has not started shedding too much weight. It’s a Mazda, therefore it will rust. The MK2 /2.5 are prone to chassis rail rust as they used a double box section for the chassis rails (Mk1’s only use a single box) so ANY moisture in between the untreated double box sections starts the self-destruct mechanism. 

Mine’s not got a roll bar special suspension or anything else - just absolutely bog-standard (but with new discs, pads, oils and fluids and tyres along with a thorough service history). I have to admit I was nervous about track driving the first time, but it’s just soooooooooo much fun and a great way to understand how the five can embarrass cars more than 5 times what I paid for it. 

Personally I don’t like the Mk1 (heresy I know and those pop-ups) but it’s too old for me and I wanted the VVT engine for more power. 

I also don’t like the Mk3 / Mk3.5 as I think it looks too “frumpy” (cue the hate comments from the Mk3 owners - sorry, it’s just my own opinion and I’ve not driven one, just being honest). 

I would love a MK4 - because they look like a fantastic car - but Mrs wife would string me up and I’ll have to wait for the mortgage to be paid off first

Whatever you choose - ask LOADS of questions here, look around, do your research and GO FOR IT. You will NOT regret it   

I used to own a Mk 1 - a beautiful R Limited in satellite blue with red leather, bbs alloys etc so familiar with the cars.

 

Quite fancy a Mk 2 shape but the additional chassis rail rust is putting me off a little.

 

I know I will need to get down and inspect the car but was really asking for pointers on where to look for the rust but also to get a feel if I should be looking beyond a Mk 1

 

Mk3 rust




On Mk2 or 2.5 I think the main areas are the normal rust traps, so that would be:

fromt chassis rails - from engine bay feel under or around the chassis rails (bit difficult if the engine is hot…) or use a flexi mirror and small torch

front and rear sill - all along, but especially the front and back if they’ve not been cleared out / cleaned / protected regularly

rear inner sill / front of rear wheel arch if the drain holes have not been cleared through regularly

Inside rear wheel arches if they’ve not been cleaned cleared off reglularly

windscreen pillars as they go under the front wing

under boot lid

inside the boot around / under the battery and also the other side under the plastic storage bin - if the rain gutter has split or the drain holes not cleared

check ALL the carpets are cdry, especially behind the seats - again if he hood drains have not been cleared out it can flood in to the cabin and rot the floor through

anything under the car - suspension arms, exhaust and brackets, and all the floor pan  due to a complete lack of underseal and UK salted roads

if the car has side skirts / body kit you can assume that it’ll b a fair bet that underneath it will be dissolving…!

bur apart from that, they’re good solid cars 

check the MOT history on line for a few clues as to the comments / failure points whilst searching too - I found his very useful- except for the “floorpan covers underside of car” comments which I always read as “it looks rusty but we’re not allowed to remove it for a proper look”…!!

research and lots of inspections / test drives and you’ll find one that will suit your needs as there’s still plenty about at reasonable prices

Thanks for all the advice.

Having thought and read up a bit more, I think I will rule out the Mk 3.

Now I am down to the Mk 1 and Mk 2/2.5

I am kind of favouring the Mk2/2.5 over the 1.

I am assuming here, that the 1.8 with LSD is the preferred track day option.

The VVT engine seems to be considered better than the 1.8 but the majority of these seem to come with the Fuji LSD whereas the Torsen LSD is considered to be the better/longer lasting/preferred version.

What are people’s thoughts and experience on this ?

 

Separately, what is the minimum ‘kit’ you would go on a track day with eg do I really need a proper roll bar etc ?

 

I’m pretty sure all MK2.5’ Sport’s with the 1.8 engine use the Fuji and not the Torsen diff. 

The Torsen is on the MK2 1.8 sport versions. 

I’ve used both on track and not been able to tell the difference (but that’s most likely due to my lack of driving ability…)

No need for a roll bar, but a useful piece of safety kit. 

The advice I had was use a standard car that’s been well serviced (new brakes, fluids, oils tyres etc), get some training (most track days will arrange instructors for you to hire and they’re well worth it). 

Then go for it, book a track day, check the car (tyre pressures, oil and fluids, wheel nut torque etc) and enjoy one of the best budget track day cars available 

Thanks for the track day advice Toolman.

 

As regards the Torsen Vs Fuji diff, I thought the Fuji was introduced for the 2003 model year and therefore that would mean some early Mk 2.5 cars would have the Torsen diff, for example the Phoenix (a Mk 2.5 SE) had a Torsen diff I believe.

 

I believe all the Torsens used on the Mk2 weren’t actually made by Torsen, but by Hitachi.

 

I’m struggling identifying this section of the chassis. Sill or chassis rail?

Hmm. Looks like part of the drivers’s side sill (potential ‘seatbelt mounting’ zone failure).  See the charcoal canister just beyond it.