Should have mentioned that we got a 2.0L retractable hardtop power shift (automatic) from new in 2013, gave it up at the end of the PCP. The car we have now is a 2.0L, six speed manual. The gearbox is fantastic and the car in manual form feels vastly quicker. We did look at an ND a while back but at 6’ 2" I can’t fit in one at all…and that’s not because of too many pies either!
1 Like
this is a good choice, slightly above what I paid for my 98,000 miles but mine was private. At this age '59 plate it’s a comparative bargain as you can pay up to £10k+ for the last NC2 !
1 Like
Thanks @carl_s
Going to try and view it tonight 
Going to check for rust on the arches (Is there an arch cover that I will have to remove so I can check the sills?)
Is there anything else I should check for too?
Oil level and ask about oil consumption.
According to @DuratecNC , piston rings can gum up and if they do, the car will use oil
1 Like
If the exhaust pipe insides are sooty and slightly sticky damp it is burning oil; just dry and sooty then it is rich and possibly an air or thermostat problem.
If after a few minutes running it is clean, dry and pale tan then probably no problems with the engine.
You are right, I have always avoided Cat cars, yet, as you said there are exceptions.
I purchased my 2013 Venture Edition with 34k miles last February as a CatC. It had had frontal damage in 2015, and the cost of repairing the pedestrian protecting pop-up bonnet might have been the reason for it being CatC.
I did not carry out extensive checks, because of the way it drove, and because it was being sold privately by an MG enthusiast who had owned it for a couple of years. He had had his mechanic check the car thoroughly when he purchased it.
I paid £4500 for it and it passed its MOT this year at a prestige garage, only needing new front discs and pads, which the seller had told me it would need soon (a year later wasn’t so soon, because I do not brake much).
If you want a bargain, you sometimes have to look further. 
1 Like
Yeh, I’m looking at a 2.0L 2009 108,000 for £5,500 which seems a bit steep.
Might consider a CAT but might need to do a through walk around.
And look at the structure.
Also, read between the lines.
My CatC had passed its MOT every year following its accident, at Mazda garages. A good sign.
But a well run high mileage MX-5 can also be a bargain.
1 Like
From a dealer that sounds about right to me, Might be a bit late but ask them to leave the car cold so you can see what it’s like on startup, puff of oil etc. Bottom of rear arches are the worst on all MX5’s it seems, but hard to inspect on the NC as it has liners and the plastic sill covers hiding things. Definitely listen for knocking on engine and check for regular oil services on engine and at least one on gearbox. Not had a PRHT myself but I would check all that works, plus aircon if it’s warm enough to tell the difference!
1 Like
how did the viewing go?
1 Like
Hey thanks for checking.
I was checked under the car for rust and found this.
Should I be concerned?
Nearside rear rust
Then the arches
Nearside rear - https://youtu.be/O1Ey51CbiOQ
Offside rear - https://youtu.be/WpPFt60Q8Vk
I did push firmly on each arch where the rust was and they felt strong.
Most of that rust is on the rear subframe, I’d be more concerned about where the rust is at the bottom on the arch offside rear arch sill - YouTube and whether you think that has gone through. I saw a flash of 16" tyres is this a 1.8 different from the 2.0 you posted above?
There was also some rust under the boot floor which is quite common, not structural and easy to rectify if you can attack it with a wire wheel & some underseal.
1 Like
Thanks @carl_s.
Yes sorry that’s a 1.8L 2007 that I took a look at today that I’m also considering as I found out 2008 models do have seat height adjustment.
https://www.supercarclassics.co.uk/used-cars/mazda-mx-5-18-option-pack-coupe-2dr-498
I did test the other 2009 above and it was fantastic, you can tell it’s been looked after and I saw no rust on the arches buts its an extra £1200 over this 1.8L 2007. After being use to driving a 1.2L Corsa the 2.0L was terrifying 
and I think 1.8 will be plenty.
If the 2009 had no rust then it might be the more prudent buy, but then again the copper red one is from an mx5 specialist so if they are reputable then you have that peace of mind.
Copper red is a great colour 
1 Like
That’s what I was thinking with it being a MX5 specialist and it leaves me budget left over to get some nice tyres and undercoat the bottom
I had a chat with the seller and he said he’s going to waxoyl it for me
Should be picking it up this week
1 Like
Congrats, looks forward to seeing some pictures! did they let you test drive the car? some dealers seem to be doing it, some not.
1 Like
Unfortunately not 
But I think I have 14 or 30 days to return it if I don’t like it but I’m not too worried.
I did test drive the 2009 2.0L and loved it so I don’t imagine there’s that much difference.
It did go in for it’s MOT today and failed though 
- Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt Both nearside & offside (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
- Rear Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (6.1.2 (a))
- Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 ©)
So I think the seller is looking into that and waxoyling the rust patches I found on the arches.
That is a good MOT result that has been done properly.
A lot of sellers are very close to their MOT stations if you know what I mean. Dust covers and emissions are easy to pass today as they could just as well fail tomorrow so some comfort in the MOT not finding anything too serious.
Emissions are often out if the sensor has failed or is contaminated which can be associated with a car not being used much over winter.
I am sure you will love it when sorted.
1 Like
I really don’t want to rain on your parade BUT, if you aren’t already contracted to buy it, just walk away. The MOT failures indicate that the car hasn’t been well looked after recently. There are thousands of them about even if you can’t find one at the moment.
If you put your sensible head on you would definitely buy a 3.5 (stronger engines, better handling) and you’d realise that the 2 litre is a much more drivable car in daily use. So, walk away if you can, don’t get carried away by understandable excitement, and just wait for the right one to come along.
I’m now on my fifth NC - 3 manuals and 2 automatics. Condition is everything.
3 Likes