I’ve had mine 10 years and never a problem once with the slider pins, but I use red rubber grease on them…I’ve done both front calipers though due to the dust seals…
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My last NC brakes were stripped cleaned grease where necessary for 8 years ownership, never a problem.
My daily driver had been serviced for 4 years from new by a dealer and an independent. Despite asking on the fourth service can you strip clean/lube and advise on brake condition they just looked at them wheels on, they worked, that’s it.
I do my own now on that car, only me has ever took the brakes apart for inspection in nearly 5 years, surprisingly they worked ok but very difficult to get the pads out of the carrier with all the crud in there, very much in need of some lube on the pins too.
Calliper rebuild time, take caliper, off get new seals, dust boots etc. lube everything, pins included. Check disc runout (warpage) replace if nessecary. Reason it binds when hot is expansion due to heat. That is how some engine ring gears are fitted, heat up expands, and simply drops over the flywheel, friction only stops the ring gear slipping round the flywheel!
I will post it on here in case anyone else is interested as well.
The front and rear discs I bought from “Simply Car Parts”.
They also have an eBay shop too.
Bought both sets and therefore cheaper on the PP if you need both sets.
The pads in the end were from “Online Car Parts”.
However, if you have the Autodoc App they will be slightly cheaper.
Likewise, your local Ferodo supplier may have them??
Good luck and all the very best. 
PS no idea why I just sent it to myself! 
Front Discs are Ferodo DDF1657C.
Rear Discs are Ferodo DDF1500C.
The front pads are Ferodo FDB 1893.
The rear pads are Ferodo FDB 1894.
Both on the attached link.
You may find the discs also on this site and again elsewhere.
Just a warning the pads took a bit longer than anticipated, but a good price.
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-mazda/mx-5-iii-nc/18887/10130/brake-pad-set.html?brand[]=62
Hi , ive done it all, changed and greesed slider pins, rebuilt calipers, new padsand disks on my mk3.
The trouble is if the sliders are not the cause the heat generated by friction will burn the rubber seals on the calipers. Plus i followed a YouTube video to rebuild the calibers. They suggested using caliper fluid to help reseat the pistons, which i followed. Big mistake as after a year they sized due to moisture ingress.
So save money and all that trouble and get yourself a nee set of professionally refurbished calipers .
If you are gentle on the brakes it’s not uncommon for MX5 brake callipers to seize. Mine did, though on the rear.
A new calliper will sort it. But the excess heat might very well have warped the discs and ruined the pads, so replace them too.
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I’m going to swap the front bottom sliders around to see if the problem swaps sides. Still don’t know why there are rubber seals on the bottom sliders but not the tops.
Because they did away with anti rattle springs from the earlier cars ,this was the design to be the “anti rattle” solution on these calipers.
A proper rubber grease for the job checked every 12 months will solve the issue.
M-m
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Sorted.
Turns out that the brake pad brackets were all rusted and seized up. This was stopping free movement and so causing a build up of heat. I was focusing on the caliper.
Such a simple thing and, not only am I doing more mpg, the steering feels different and the front brakes are in balance.
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