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The 10A fuse controlling instrument panel & indicators keeps blowing.<o:p></o:p>
I was driving along when temp gauge, rev counter oil pressure gauge and indicators stopped working. <o:p></o:p>
Checked fuses and 10amp fuse had blown, changed it for a new 10amp fuse and everything started working.<o:p></o:p>
Next day the fuse blew again so I replaced it OK. <o:p></o:p>
To date I have replaced the fuse 4 times. (Not blown today).<o:p></o:p>
Each time I was driving about 40mph no lights on no aircon on and not indicating.<o:p></o:p>
I’ve tried to trace the cable route from the fuse box to the indicator stalk to the instrument panel everything seems OK. <o:p></o:p>
I think the next step (which I don’t want to do) would be to disconnect the instrument panel to see if it’s one of gauge sensors that could be causing the problems. <o:p></o:p>
Any ideas/help would be appreciated.<o:p></o:p>
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Eunos S Special 1600 June 1993 located Worsley, Manchester.<o:p></o:p>
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According to the wiring diagram, that fuse should be 15 Amp
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Thanks for the reply but my diagram shows a 10A fuse situated on the fuse block (X-04) under the dashboard and the diagram labels it as the meter fuse Black/Yellow cable. The fuse elements didn’t seem to “evaporate” as happens with a direct short. It has been 3 days since it last blew.<o:p></o:p>
Sorry for the confusion, I mis read your post.
This is the diagram for a 1993 Mk1
Looking at this:
Tthere is a feed to the combination switch [the one mounted on the steering column, headlights etc]
Another feed to Reversing light switch
Another feed to Power aerial
and one to the instrument cluster, all the others apply to USA cars
So, have a look at the wiring to the reversing light switch, mounted on the drivers side of the gearbox.
Have you got a power antenna? If so is it working correctly?
Do all the functions on the combination switch work ok, does the fuse blow when you use the indicators for instance?
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Thanks for the diagram you’ve given me a number of options. <o:p></o:p>
All the functions work OK.<o:p></o:p>
Each time it blew I was driving in a straight line about 40mph not indicating aircon and heater off, although the radio was on so electric antenna was extended.
Each time I replaced the fuse I tried every combination of switch trying to get it to blow but was unsuccessful the fuse would not blow.
Next time it blows (not blown for 4 days) I’ll disconnect the reversing light and the antenna before replacing the fuse.<o:p></o:p>
Thanks for your assistance I’ll let you know how I go on.<o:p></o:p>
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Good luck with it, it’s difficult to diagnose these faults even when you are in the car. Here’s a link to a complete set of wiring diagrams, they are for a USA MIata, but essentially the same for all '5s
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/185.aspxÂ
How did you rectify the fuse blow as I’ve the same problemÂ
The fuse is blowing because there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring or auxiliaries controlled by that fuse. When the particular circuit is actuated, the short circuit allows too much current to flow and simply overloads and blows the fuse.
The way to find the short circuit is to first isolate which of the iindividual components protected by the fuse is causing issue. This can only be done by disconnecting/connecting until the particular component identified. Once you know what part is the cause you have to check everything on that circuit. Start with switch(es) and component(s) and when these are proven to be operating without a short it just leaves you with the wiring. Short circuits in the wiring are usually trapped or damaged wire that has become connected to metal bodywork, directly or indirectly, taking the wire charge to earth. Can be a real pain to find the cause but wire substitution to identify the troublesome length of wire can save a bit of time.
A lot of owners understandably pass this sort of problem straight to an auto electrician.