Hi,
When running, my car sounds fine, but it always take a couple of seconds to start. Is this a sign of something?
Cheers, Camerart
It probably needs a new battery.
A good battery should spin the engine and it should start first kick.
With the nine-year old battery my NC would start, but sometime reluctantly. With the new battery it starts first kick. Which also puts a lot less stress on the battery (less high current cranking time, thus less to recharge)
Less likely is a slow-to-begin fuel pump. However, my habit acquired half century ago with old SU fuel pumps was to turn on ignition, wait for it to finish ticking (ie get up to pressure and fill carb), and only then spin the engine, and hope.
Even now with the NC I wait for the initial faint buzz of the pump to finish before spinning the engine.
Hi R,
I think the battery is ok.
I suspected the fuels pump as well. Does it spin till the pressure is up? I have never heard it.
Where is it?
Thanks, C.
The fuel pump is electric and lives in the tank, just behind your left ear. If the engine is running OK then the pump is most likely OK.
The battery may seem OK, however a battery with only 5% capacity will still start the car, but reluctantly. It is easy to get it tested by a battery technician, a lot easier than fiddling about with an inaccessible and probably OK fuel pump.
The other thing with batteries is they need very good clean connections to the thick wires, and on your model there is one thick wire in particular under the car connected to the PPF (Power Plant Frame) close by the differential, and that connection sometimes rots away, again a quick visual inspection can see if it is OK.
Check the condition of all the earths, and the condition of the battery earth clamp. A combination of issues can cause sluggish starting.
Interesting.
“ Even now with the NC I wait for the initial faint buzz of the pump to finish before spinning the engine. “
I can’t comment on the NC but on my 95 Eunos the fuel pump only runs when the ignition is turned to the start position. It does not run with just the ignition on. If you want to test it with the ignition on you need to link FP and GND in the diagnostic port to get the pump to run. It’s a safety thing so you don’t run the fuel pump unless the engine is running. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU. I’d be surprised if a more modern car didn’t have the same safety feature but you never know I guess.
D
I’ve just had a listen to check my assumption.
I pushed the passenger seat forward, took the cubby cover out, made sure fans radio etc were off, and sure enough when the ign is switched to the Run position there is a brief buzzy-whine noise from where the fuel tank is. I have to assume this noise is the pump achieving pressure and then waiting for it to drop again on demand because there are no other active motors around there.
I then checked the NC service manual, (when all else fails RTFM) and in it for doing the pressure check it says
"5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position to operate the fuel pump. "
Fair comment Richard, I guess the more modern ECUs monitor much more stuff so can safely control when the fuel pump runs. Shut it down in an accident or impact for example.
However my comment to the OP is the same, the mk1 fuel pump does not run in the ignition on position unless the engine is running or the link in the diagnostic port is in.
Hi,
When I take the fuel cap off, it releases air pressure, is this a sign that the pump is working?
Where are relevant earth connections located?
C