VVT is only on the 1.8L version, if you bought a Sport model - it definitely has VVT. It also has bigger brake discs (note when re-ordering parts) and stiffer springs, enough to give a firmer ride. IIRC- 14% front and 10% rear. check any paperwork - it should have had at least two cam belt replacements in that time, regardless of mileage (Cam belts are guaranteed for six years as well as stated Mazda mileage of 54.000 in the hand book - if you got one!). Always a good idea to change the water pump at cambelt change, you have to remove most parts to get to it otherwise.
According to other members -VVT kicks in at 3,500* revs, and it works well - believe me - try it! Red line is 7,200 rpm.(*stay away from it!) Power band (torque and HP) start to come together at 5,600 rpm, and join each other at 6,000. If you like to stay in the “sweet spot” then shift up - or down at 5,600 revs. In heavy traffic (urban areas) third gear is best at just over 2,000 revs, fourth is best for 40 limits and fifty for fifty zones. Motorways sixth gear at just over 3,000 rpm. All these fast figures assume you are unaccompanied, or you’ll get pains in your left ear!
VVT time - never noticed on my old car, it just works!
Tip - first to second can seem a bit notchy, cure is to use the palm of your hand to shift from 1 t 2, and keep pressure towards the left, after that, most gears are easy enough if you treat the box kindly.
hopefully the car is rust free - or limited, if you have access o a lift get it up and get under. The suspension will be showing rust - it starts at one year!, but check sub frames, specially the rear one. Also beware of bad rust areas - the front chassis legs (box sections each side the engine bay) and the rear arches and sills - all rust from the inside out unfortunately.Mist repairs or replacements tend to be expensive - something you have to accept on an older car.