I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: sticking clutch pedal
Hey Gang,
I Just got my 2006 NC Sport (manual) back from the garage where they were MOTing and replacing a broken rear spring, and took it for a drive (it admittedly hasn’t been driven an awful lot lately) and it was fine for the 1hour drive, but then after it had been parked for about 15 mins, when i got back in, the clutch pedal was behaving differently.
It wasn’t springing all the way back up, and the first 1/2 of its full travel was sloppy and loose (possibly what is referred to as the dead zone). The clutch seemed to be working, but maybe biting way down at the floor. I got it home okay, albeit crunching the gears once or twice. When in gear and with the clutch all the way down, the car stayed stationary, so it’s not completely dysfunctional (ie i’ve driven a car with a clutch in worse shape)
Like i said, the car hasn’t been used an awful lot lately, and has sat outside in the rain, and under trees, so i’m mindful of leaves and crud plugging things up (like the roof drains).
Thoughts? I have found a page about adjusting the bite level, but don’t want to go di**ing around if its a sign of something more sinister, like the clutch beginning to fail etc.
Hi
I have exactly the same car and have had the same issue.
I panicked for a while, but because it was working “OK” I left it alone, next day I pumped the clutch about 20 times before starting and it was if nothing had happened.
Not sure why a hydraulic system would behave this way, but put it down to lack of use.
Driven it a few times since, and even with the really cold spell we have had it seems fine.
Don’t get me wrong, when cold the gearbox is a pain, but once warm al is OK.
I would give it a few days before di**ing about and see what happens.
I had the same problem this year when changing the brake fluid and bleeding the clutch circuit.
After a while, I actually had no pressure at all.
Thought the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder had gone and actually ordered a new one.
BUT I decided to take it off and the master cylinder.
Checked it all and seemed okay.
Put it back together and bleed and has worked fine ever since!
Obviously cancelled the new ones.
It’s a strange situation and one of life’s little mysteries!
NC Brakes and Clutch masters share the brake reservoir.
BUT the take-off for the clutch is about halfway up the reservoir. (Brakes still work when clutch has dumped all its fluid.)
If the brakes have been bled and NOT the clutch at the same time, air can easily get into the clutch system and the fluid continues to age and works back into the brakes as well.
It’s all one system, but at the last service I had to argue the toss with the main dealers who changed the brake fluid without touching the clutch.
I pointed out they had only changed 4/5 of the brake fluid.
At check-in I had also specifically asked for the clutch to be done as well. They merely checked it was working, and admitted they had not changed the fluid. Daft, daft.
From someone who as been in the motor trade half of his life . One way you can check to see if your clutch will need replacing . Start the engine put one foot hard down on the brake. put in gear let the clutch up slow. if the engine stalls all is ok.
Thanks for that.
I was aware of the dual system, but perhaps SWMBO failed in her observation duties!
A mistake I will only make once.
A merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and indeed your family.
Okay, great information. And good to know I’m not alone. It’s being serviced in the new year so I’ll get the brake/clutch fluid changed then and see where I’m at. It’s also great to know the biting point on the pedal can be adjusted.
