I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __Oil Filter Wrench
I have tried to replace the oil filter on our MX5, but unfortunately I cannot get a strong enough grip due to location. The “cup” wrench I got from ebay is 74mm (903) and the filter is 72.5mm.(903-4) I have tried tape to reduce the dia. , I even made 14 shims from thin sheet steel, but the filter won’t move. I can try and buy a 72.5mm wrench, but I fear all my failed attempts, might have “rounded” the flutes on the bottom of the filter, and make that useless too.
Two types of alternative wrench I have seen are 3 legged “universal” types where the legs grip the filter tighter the more you try to release the filter, and a similar idea but using a strap with a winder.
Research suggests each have issues ;- the legs slip on the filter so don’t work and the straps are too weak and snap.
Advice/suggestions/guidance will be much appreciated.
Changing the serpentine belt after this was comparatively simple !.
TIA
Try a rubber glove from the kitchen. Sit it in the cup before putting it on the filter. Might have to give it a tap to seat it on. The rubber glove will add grip and take up any space. That should do the trick hopefully.
No room to skewer it with a big screwdriver? I managed to undo one once that some friends had given up on but i suspect that was a fluke rather than gorilla-like hand strength!
First time I changed the filter on my NC I had the same problem as yourself, It clearly hadn’t been changed in a while and felt like it was welded in place !
I also tried a correctly sized cup wrench, a chain wrench and various other wrenches. What got mine moving in the end was a pair of long handled oil filter ‘pliers’. They had serated jaws on them that dug into the metal nicely.
The last time I changed my filter i didn’t access it from underneath the car, but via the LH wheel arch. You can get reasonable access if you jack and support the car, remove the LH front wheel, remove ‘some’ of the wheel arch liner and you can then see the filter.
I found this quicker, easier and safer than lying completely under the car.
Pretty sure I posted a picture somewhere, will try to find it for you.
Many thanks for all the replies, much appreciated. Think I’ll go down the 3 legged flat bar ( as opposed to round bar) route - as suggested on here, and as I found on a Utube Vid. ( US Pro). Will let you all know how I get on, but will be about 7/10 days as I’m away next week.
One surprising thing, even with a 10 yr life, I did not find a cup type “socket” wrench for these cars. A niche is being missed here i think, as it appears we all have issues removing these awkwardly sited filters.
Again thanks.
So, decided to make one of these strap removal tools. I had a length of 20mm bar, and an old blue strap from a long lost time. Long story short - couldn’t get the thing in to work after I made it. However, the suggestion re the kitchen glove got me re thinking. I’m a mechanical hoarder. I still have Whitworth spanners, and some transaxle oil from my Hillman Imp. I also have an old puncture riddled bicycle inner tube. I cut a strip out, stuck it with impact adhesive to the inside of my 74mm dia. cup socket, and very gingerly tried to unfasten the filter. I used adapters so I could get a 1/4" extension, rather than the 1/2" extension so the drive was more inline. Beggar me it unfastened- one nil to the tinkering old man hoarder!! New filter screwed finger tight +3/8 turn and checked for leaks, all good
Again thank you to all contributors
I have a version of that but with round prongs and serrated edges which grip into the metal of the filter. No problem other than access where a 3/8 ratchet and a universal joint help, my version has a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor included
If you go down the screwdriver through the side route put a small hole in the bottom of the filter to drain out all the oil, then put a plastic bag around the filtrer itself. Saves making a mess.
