92NA V Spec Interior Swap

  1. My model of MX-5 is: __92 na v spec
  2. I’m based near: __Sudbury Suffolk
  3. I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __starting mini build thread.
  4. Hi how can i start a mini build thread for my interior swop out. I am a tech moron.
  5. Thats mini as in small not as in austin.

    Carpet out. Much mustiness.

Mazdas effort for sound deadening. They are are such weight weenies!

All wiped down ready for…

A bit more silent coat. Got it cheap. One box does whole car. More needed for when in do the door and boot. Dont wear shorts doing this unless your want it stuck in your leg hair. And the job will cost you at least a pair of knees and maybe a lumbar spine. Probably about a third done. Not the prettiest job but its hidden forever.

I jnow the purists will hate me but the leather seats in tan really did my back in, didnt grip in the corners, got too hot in the sun. Tan dash was in bad condition so had to go. Door cards and seats sold for good sum so i can reinvest. Plus i prefer the black interior. Strange i know. I am trimming the door tops and crash pad with matching gear and handbrake gaitors. Still deciding on material and colour. If anyone is interested i will cont to post. Happy to field questions on the project so far if it
helps someone else out. I am near sudbury suffolk if you want to drop by and see it if it helps you with anything while it is apart. Lemeno.

3 Likes

It’ll be interesting to see what goes back in, I’ve a 92 V Spec too.
Keep the updates coming :+1:

It will be black on black on black to start then crash pads and door tops in tan ish to match seatbelts and give a nod to the old.
I know some people like the tan interiors but i dont. I brought the car on condition. Thanks for the feed back. Stay tuned. Plan is to finish cabin sound deadening friday and put dash in saturday and carpets sunday.

Update
I noticed a small film off oily liquid on the floor pan next to the ecu. Further investigation revealed the foam on the bulk head wet also.

Removed it and rung it out to get a dirty pink liquid


Tasted it - sweetish
Smelled it - wouldnt describe it a fruity but certainly not industrial like other oils.
All this triangulated with its location would mean coolant.
Most likely heater matrix but nothing on the bulk head or around the flap box.
Maybe it was a bit of collateral from when the air con system was updated.
Do these pipes and brackets look new?

Anywho, the state of the air box flaps keeps making my eye twitch so its being yanked and cleaned and re foamed. One more blast of the fan and i think it will start another pandemic.
Research suggests a 3 or 4 mm heat rated foam should be good enough so the glue resists the hot cold cycles. I have found some in 50mm wide roll form that will do the job unless anyone knows better. I will keep posting if you interested in the removal, split and overhaul. Stopping to take pictures does add time but if the views stay above 1 then i will. The 1 is probably surveillance from the wife. Mi espousa es el hombre de la cassa.
The air box flappage.


And fan blower box.

Well…
That weekend went completely sideways and then the rest of the week went backwards into a field. I am aware that nobodies life hinges on this lunatics blog but apologies to anyone hoping for a bit more of a read.
I got dragged into a house DIY job that turned into an epic then had to prep my other car for long journey this weekend.
Back on it on Tuesday.
Peace and love.

2 Likes

…soooooo.
Got all excited with 3 or 4 hours to spare today. Only to find that the heater box extraction is a fail. The matrix pipes are blocked by the air con unit. And that cant be extracted as the pipes are connected through the bulkhead as well. And i cant undo them and evacuate the sytem because of penguins. So i am in contact with my air con guy to get this done then i can crack on. Bit of a ■■■■■■ but hey ho. I WILL GET THIS DONE!

Ok so once i had stopped crying i decided to get on with some other bits. The parcel shelf. I used the old tan one as a pattern.


I had done a pretty got job first time around cutting the holes for the gc fab roll bar. I was determined not to do a hack job like i have seen on line.
They always st

ill needed a bit more trimming but 90% there.
Then get the new carpet taped up.

Then swop them over.

Then use a round thing to mark the holes and check for symetry. This is not precision engineering but the vernier makes it feel a bit less bodgy


Then chop chop. New blade and cutting board.

Quick refit. Needs a bit of fine tuning and extra trimming which ok as

you cant add material on!!
Oh and put something over the floorpan if

in a hot garage with butyl stuff around. Luckily the pot of sticky stuff remover was the same diameter as the roll bar and became my “round thing”
School run now. Not a complete waste of a day after going 1 nil down in the first 10 minutes.

1 Like

Hokey crokey.
Todays mission complete.
Use the old shelf carpet to cut a template for the foam topper.


Then somehow get the access plates for the fuel pump etc cut out so they can be removed without ripping it all up again. If i do this now i will never need access! If i dont do it like this i probably will. Sods law.

Not easy but lots of offering up and taking out. Tried paper templates etc but mostly luck in the end


Then fitted in final position.

Repeat for other flap and final fit

Then carpet back on top after making access holes for the carpet clips and the bolts that hold the bent flappy cut your fingers to bits bit that goes over front edge of the shelf. A tiny bit of trimming for the roll bar holes but at least i feel like its going back together.
The ice man cometh tomorrow to drain air con so i can move back to the front. The horror, the horror.

I am more than happy to field any form of abuse or encouragement or advice as this exercise plays out.

So the ice man did cometh and informed me there was very little gas in the system and condensor looks like the scource of the leak as it A) is 33 years old and B) looks like the back wall of a firing range.
Finally got the nuts undone. You have to remove an little bracket under where the pipe dissapears out of site to allow the big nut to fully turn off.


Then the unit can be wriggled out from inside. I chose the option of laughing maniacally and then holding it aloft like Simba before dribbling like a Whittaker and realising my garage door is wide open.
Then the air box flappy thing pretty much offered itself to me and came out ezee peezee

Here it is on the bench ready for a good talking to.


Please let me know if you watching this for pure schadenfreuden, or if you thinking about doing it yourself or whatever and i can tailor my entries to suit.

So the wife stacked it and tossed half a tin of black paint over the garage floor, door, out onto the resin drive and hardiboard on the side of the house. After the clean up (nightmare) i decided to crack on a bit as i could now pull rank on her for a few hours.
Here we go.


Ping this little clip of the hinge arm. It holdsthe flap in place.

Then you can get the matrix cover off. There are a screw or 2 here and there.

And the matrix is revealed. Some scaling so maybe a clue as to the scource of the dribble of coolant in the footwell

Or maybe it was this slightly crushed pipe end that some thug matching my description may or may not have done wrestling off the old pipes during a silicone hose swop.

Possible further clues as the pipe looks a bit dribble marked.

But then again the fitting look likely also. The clips werent that tight. I think only one has this rubber hose from the factory not both. So maybe someone has been in here before. Technically now the matrix could have removed while the car was fully assembled but the flap box is being renewed anyway so no biggie.

The matrix does look a but rusty which i guess it shouldnt as it sealed. So its going in the can anyway. Takes a nibble from the turbo budget as these are 150 odd quid. Swine.

On the box there are these clips dotted about so pop these off. Beware as they are springy and will go flying.

Then the flap box just easily splits apart. You will have to cut the soft foam seals and replace (or not and keep your fingers crossed.

Working on half at a time.

Another little plastic tab to pop up and the flap and pivot arm come out as one piece. The other end of the arm does not have the tab so it can only go in one way.

Precision depth assessment.

This is a single wipe of a finger over the foam/dust.

This is where the little plastic tabs clip into.

Scrape all the old stuff off.

Then a wire brush in an electric drill. Degrease with brake cleaner.

Then paint the nibs with marker pen.

Which gives you a guide of where the little dimples are.

Twot them out with a hole punch.

Sacrificial corner stuck for over night experiment. But i have ordered a pot of contact adheasive as i cant see me relying in the stickiness on the back of the replacement that i aquired.
I will do one flap at a time as my memory is shot. I have photgraphed and even done a video tour of the box assembled in the hope it all goes back together.
End of day.
Ps

If you have an old car this is one of the reasons your interior stinks. Its an absolute filth show behind your dash.
Is all this nonsense any good to you people?

1 Like

Is this better added as an edit or new entry?
I will start new entries as an edit for the time being.
Good day.
OK, so the stickiness of the backing on my material was she ite. So used the contact adheasive. First job get the right thickness material.


This is the origional, more or less.

And this is the replacement, more or less.

Offer it up, cut to length, mark the holes to be punched out were required. Some flaps have them and some dont. All flaps seal around the outer edge so material in the middle is not necessary really but it more trouble to not cover it 100%!

Repeat for the rest of the flap. Spread the adheasive. As its a porous material on the flap you can stick straight away.

Repeat for the other flaps.

Side profile then looks like this.

Here you can see the second flap slightly open.

And closed. It only seals on the edges.

Next for this sordid colection.

To give this filthy old dirt box…

…a good wiping before stuffing the flaps back inside.

Then i span it around and saw the other side even more of a state.

Took some pictures and several fly by style videos but evetually bottled it and decided not to dissassemble the linkages on the side. It looks far too cuffufling.

I did each flap one at a time top to bottom and layed them out as i finished them. Apart from the first (now pink) flap they are all 3mm thick.

Here are the two halves reflapped. They only go in one way with the tab hole outermost. As long as you get them back in the right place the orientation almost sorts itself out. Although the videos i took where vital to see which side of various notches and stays they sat. A picture is ok but you will find yourself thinking “i wish i could see round that bit” or “is that above or below that bit”

Here is the 2 halves back together!!! Thought it would never happen. This was probably the fiddliest bit as you have to line up the non clipped ends of the flap bar into a non clipped hole in the opposite half.

Also be carefull of the 2 white clips that link the flaps to the rest of the mechanism.
They look the same but the orientation of the tab is slightly different.
Hope this helps someone.
Blower box next.

Last job on flap box.
Cloth over magnetic bar. Spray clips. Otherwise they get blasted across the foor.

Then snipped back in place.
All nice and new.
Right blower box.
Here we go.

Here you van see the state of the seal between the box and the under inner side of the windscreen/cowl bit. So it was probably sucking in bit of fithy air from under the dash rather than the high pressure area its supposed to. In a way it is a randall intake but for the interior!!

This is the main sealing flap for, i think, recurculate or fresh air. As you can see it stinks and basically turns to dust as soon as its touched. There are bits of it all through the rest of the assembly.

Undo a few perimeter screws and…

she parts.

Here is the blower fan. Disgusting.

A hose style clamp and a small tab later and its ready to effortlesley slide of the shaft.

It actually needed a bit of whacking with a punch while el wifeo held the fan from the underside.

The mechanism on this is much simpler but just as grubby.

Whip of this metal cover.

To get at the flap.

It is screwed onto the shaft with 2 little screws where the screwdriver is jammed in and the opposite end. Then the shaft slides out. As you silde it out it will jam so turn it a bit and then it comes out. You dont need to remove it as its seprate to the flap this time but i wanted to clean the housing and regrease the mechanism.

This is the hidden side of the flap as its a double foam job.

Here is the fan blade cleaned. Satisfying.
I have ran out of foam so ordered some more. This time its 5mm not 3mm. Hopefully get the heater core pressure tested next week and if its ok then i might only be 3 hours away from it all being back in the car. Depending on wether or not i take the air con cooler box apart. Let me know if you would like to see that!!

Cleaned up the motor box.

And the grille cover bit.
Tbc tomorrow when the foam comes.
If any moderators think this is better of as seperate threads. Ie flap box,heater box, interior change then id like to split it up.
I am thinking of doing a full air con service so that would be another one. Or maybe one big HVAC one. It might make it easier to digest.
So cracking on.
Start to get the carpet back in.

Basically lob it in and line up some holes. A bit of carpet double sided tape hither and tither and its in place.

Clean up the foot rest. More filth.

Clean up the sill plates with a bit of new foam.

And screw them down. Not too tight or the metal bends.
Bit of a job getting the plastic catches to line up and they slide around a bit. The sill fixes the carpet down so once they are in it starts to look a lot better.

Here is the carpet pretty much fitted. A bit of wire tucking here and pulling through elsewere. There is 3 looms on mine under the seats. Ine for the seat belt. One for the seat speakers (not fitted now) and another one for ? Heated seat option.

Next job refit heater blower with new foam to scuttle underside. Everthing is tighter due to the sound deadening. Wrestle to fit air con cooler. Drop nut down behind ECU cover. Try and retrieve it. Cant. Take up carpet. Unbolt ECU cover. Retrieve nut. Blood everwhere. Refit cover. Wipe blood off cover. Refit carpet. Try to fit hvac flap box. Realise it needs to go in before air con cooler. Take out air con cooler. Refit flap box. Refit cooler. Realise the straps that seal them together are tight as hell with clearance around the back and new foam situation. Reloosen all fixtures. Fit straps loose. Re tighten everthing again. Do up clips! 2 hours gone.

Here you can see how the seal these provide is essential as the flanges of these three bits do not marry up exactly and leave gaps.

The cooler to flap box side.
Next installment is the dash installment. Stay tuned. Smash that like button. Etc.

Onward


New dash.
Whip out the air duct plastics and…

Get them in the kids bath water. Obviously remove kids first. Then calm wife with reassurances on clean up. Leave to soak while kids are diapatched to bed.

After a good rogering with various pipe cleaners let them drip and air dry mostly. The plastic is ok but does not look like it will take much more abuse.

I had to take all this out because once i had to remove the dash harness. When i saw the sate of them inside the eye twitch came back.

Give the back of the dash a good clean. Usual greasy caked on grime I thought about reapraying the bar but its all too destructive and the coming together again is motivational. Also the dash takes up a lot of space and i need it out the way again.

Refit ducting. Takes a bit of jiggery pokery.

Dash ready to go back in.

Dash re inned.
Its a case of offering up check for loom snags. Wriggle it. Check why its jammed. Move that wire to the right location. Jiggle it more. Then it pops in.
Only joking
The lower centre metalic bit for the back of tombatine snag on the floor so it wont swing back. This is due to the sound deadening. Panic. Then i realise if i firmly press the carpet down and push at the same time it will go in gradually. Finally get the 4 lower transmission tunnel bolts in. Run around garden with t shirt over head and arms aloft.
Stay tuned.

3 Likes

I’m impressed by your dedication! Please continue with the updates :+1:

I appreciate the comment but i can assure you this whole caper is unnecessary madness more than dedication.
I will see it through.

Ok. Slow progress as life takes over.
However…


Got the clocks back in. Bit of a fiddle getting the necessary parts of the loom to reach. Not much slack on the cables and the speedo where they plug into the back.

Oh and remember before you completely disable the car dont park it so close to your boundry that the door wont open enough to easily get the efffin dash bolts back in. Got there in the end.

Tombstone bracket. Yes, its been repainted. Yes, i am a sad little man.

Slip the tombstone in. One little screw at the bottom. The top is held in via the eyeball vent holes.


Then simply pop the centee console back in. Its not quite in here. Needed a bit of jiggery pokery to gain clearance.

Carpet back in behind seats. But not before…
we address the fit of the shelf carpet around the roll bar.

I realised the hole is not round as the bar goes through at an angle. I then saw that the pipe i use in the big grip section of my pull up station had some plastic pipe the same OD as the roll bar.


So chopped a bit of and lined it up with the bar.

Marked the angle.

Chop it off. And now i have an oliptical orifice.

Bosh it on the hole.

Thats how far out a round hole is. Mark it. Cut it

Put carpet back in. Lovely.
The marks on the bar are sticky bits not scratches.
Baddabing. End of entry.
Hoping to get a but more done tomorrow. Stay tuned for steering wheel reveal…