A little TLC to my NC wheel arches/sills

I did a quick post recently about the removal of the side skirts on my Mk3 and what I found, here’s an update with a little more detail.

Since last year I’ve been meaning to tackle some small areas of rust on the rear end of my Mk3, mainly the wheel arch and sill areas. Also mindful of a very small amount of surface bubbling of paint around the rear wheel arch lip on one side, about the size of a 5p piece I thought I’d tackle both problems whilst the wheels were off and I had it up in the air.

It was rather a longer process than I had planned for, about a week all told as waiting for layers of paint to cure and rust treatment to act. I was curious as to what lay beneath those plastic painted side skirts, I couldn’t see any with just a peek after unclipping the rear end of them so off they came for a better view. Once off I was pleasantly surprised to find it was mostly free of rust along the sill, just a small amount of bubbly paint towards the rear end, jacking point areas.
What I did find around the rear inner sill  and up in the lower wheel arch area were sections of underseal lifting or on some areas missing altogether, not a surprise owning a Mazda I guess for most. BTW you need to remove the wheel arch liners too, not a difficult job just a series of plastic studs and screws, pretty simple.

Sadly I forgot to take some pre treatment shots on some areas but TBH there wasn’t much to show, just a few rusty bits showing through a treatment of Dinitrol I applied over  2 years ago.
So with the skirts removed and the area ground back I was ready for treatment…

My method was with a Dremel and flap wheel, gets in those hard to reach places, I wouldn’t have got in there with a standard drill and wheel. Rust ground away I applied Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to the areas followed by their Epoxy mastic x 2 coats, that’s a bit potent mask and gloves needed.

A sort of before shot of the lower arch, especially around that area where arch meets sill, prone to catch all the muck and stuff thrown off the wheel, Iremoved all the rubber bungs prior to treatment and paint

 

Application of the mastic x 2 coats NS arch followed by an application both sides (shown on the OS) of some black paint I had in the garage to finish.

 

For good measure I also did along the outer sill whilst the skirts were off and the areas requiring treatment on the rear inner sill.

 

You may have noticed I have painted the band of grey primer around the arch lip, I thought I’d treat the whole edge around the arch whilst I was treating the small patch of rust so I ground away the top coat of paint and treated it to a coat of epoxy mastic. I followed this with 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of true red and finally 2 x lacquer, not bad for an amateur painter. All carefully sanded back and blended in (you can hardly see the join) cut in and polished and a wax finish. I treated the undersides as said 2 years ago, also I painted inside those arch lips then, they still look good but I still applied some more mastic around there. Best viewed inside there with a mirror and torch as you can’t get you head in there very well.

 

I recommend taking a peek under your car at the areas I have shown, also get the wheels off and the arch liners off and take a look all around. As shown in the pics there’s a good deal of edges that are prone to catch the muck and stuff and as with mine the underseal starts lifting and rust begins, caught early it’ll save on costly remedial work at a later date.

I’ve not finished yet, next job exhaust back box off and treat a little area up behind the arches, a catchment area for muck and anything thrown up from the wheels.

 

 

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Good pics

 

THIS PLACE sell the clips you will break removing the sill.

 

A tip also. If you remove the rear panel inside and take out the seat belt reels. It gives access to a cavity behind them that is directly the other side of the bit you have done. The drain passes through here and when I took mine out I found a small amount of rust. I rust killered it, repainted than waxoyled it. You can also clean out the bottom drain valve. 

Look under the floor between the drain exit and the sill and you will find a small hole that drains this cavity

Hi, just happened on this post. The square lug on the photo below has been snapped off at some point. I bought a couple of new plugs so want to replace the old one.

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Looking at your photos, I assume that I can take just the clip out of the hole on the rear of the sill shown in the photo below, ease the sill out over, remove the old square headed main plug from the body, slide the new one into the slot on the sill and then push the sill up from the bottom snapping the plug back into the body? No need to take the whole sill off? Does the whole sill just pull off sideways?

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It could be doable, I suppose it depends how far that part of the sill come away to get the clip in without over doing things and cracking it. It slides off rewards but there are 10 clips along the sill rather like the door card clips to unclip then the large clips, 5 of them along the lower edge which the sill slides along off.

Thanks for that, I’ll have a look over the next few days.

Given the amount of money I’ve just spent on my NA sills which had to be replaced entirely inner , outer and middle strengthener as it had been neglected (but it was cheap though) this is very sound advice.

I even had to have the inner sills and strengtheners custom made as the panels are unavailable and they will be unavailable for NCs in due course.

Looked at my new 4 day ownership car today. No real problems yet but I will be doing the same.

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