I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: Oil
Hey folks, I’ve been on the hunt for oil as I’m going to give my 5 its first service since I got it, I’ve been in the booklet and it suggests 0w-20 oil which is fine…
However on searching Eurocarparts and others every 0w-20 oil that I see has “Formulated for Hybrid Engines” written on them…
My question is, is there any particular difference between Hybrid oil and regular engine oil? I assume that as long as the weight is correct it should work?
I don’t know what Hybrid oil is. I suspect it is just a marketing thing to indicate an oil is suitable for hybrids, and I would look at the grade and the technical (API/ACEA) specs.
You can use 0W-20 or 5W-30, the theoretical trade off being economy vs. protection in my mind at least. You should also pay attention to the API (SL/SM/SN)and ACEA (A3/A5) specs.
FWIW I have been using Shell Helix Ultra AF 5W-30. I also have some Millers Trident Professional (5999) C3 oil which Millers assure me will be good for the ND and is arguably actually better (it also meets the SN spec). I will probably use that up in the ND as I no longer have the car I actually bought it for.
I have a possibly irrational liking for Millers who are a mile from where I grew up. I find their ‘oil finder’ useful.
How material it is to wear I don’t know, but it looks like a trade off of protection for efficiency. The book actually says, inter alia -
"When choosing an oil, consider the temperature range your vehicle will operate in before the next oil change. Then select the recommended viscosity from the chart."
As 5W-30 is good down to -30 degrees C, I have deemed it suitable for Hertfordshire:) The “except Europe” table actually includes 10W-50 which is OK down to -20 so I have no concern about my choice.
It’s beyond my area of knowledge, frankly, but it did occur to me that C3** might actually be advantageous even though it is not specified. A concern with DI engines is always inlet tract deposits especially when crankcase gases are recycled through the inlet manifold. The less crud there is around in the first place, perhaps the less it will accrete on the inlet tract/valves?
Of course it can’t be wrong to use the specified oil, and I’m not losing sleep over this, but I might ask Millers’ technical about it, as they include C3 in their list of suitable oils.
**C3 is “mid-SAPS” oil, which produces less ash. It’s intended for cars with DPFs but also benefits catalysts.
I use two types of 5w 30 in my cars, daily driver (non MX-5) and the NC. Castrol in the DD and Mobil in the NC.
Basically follow the blurb (numbers in the handbook and on the tin match) my DD spec a long life oil and also suitable for stop/start technology. I use a VAG spec oil in that.
Yes understanding your temp usage case js the answer here. And especially given the relatively temperate climate here in the UK, where it’s rarely THAT hot or THAT cold, means your don’t need 0w or 10w oils. It’s the second number that always interests me, as I track drive a lot, so I’m caterhams etc we would often use 5w50 race oil, as it’s stable at much higher operating temps.
On Paul Roddisons advice the mx5 runs 5w30. Mostly because the mx5 doesn’t get especially hot when running hard, so threat to the oil is minimal. I’ve not had any reason to doubt this yet, but I also have some motorsport 5w40 in storage that I might use in my next change.
0w50 is the thickest in hot temperature environment with 0w20 being the thinnest. Extremely high performance engines (M5’s and the like) may use 0w50 because they get pretty hot. in cold temperature the above oils should behave exactly the same.
if for the nd the owners manual says 0W-20 or 5W-30, the 0w20 is better for cold start and probably better suited in cold environment whereas the 5w30 is probably better in a hotter climate. if you have an oil that is 0W30 is probably better but again its out of spec.
I stick to 0w40 for my NC but having said that I know its out of spec according to the owners manual.
The part before the W is the weight in cold temperatures. 0,5,10 suggests how thick or thin it is at cold startup. 0 being the thinnest.
30,40,50 is an indication of how thick it maintains at higher temperatures before the oil gives up and becomes too thin to maintain engine protection. 50 being the thickest at lower temperatures.
The point being made here is that the 0 weigh oil will offer more protection and flow around the engine easier at very low temps than a 10w will.
Whereas a w30 oil will cook itself on the track before a 40 or 50 will.
Beware of using overly heavy oil in engines with hydraulic valve gear, which AFAIK includes the Skyactiv-G.
It’s possible I’ve jumbled this in my memory, but in the days when everyone thought Duckhams 20w-50 was the bees knees Ford went to 5W-30. The reason IIRC was the use of hydraulic tappets. The engines with them didn’t run properly on the old oils. Though I suspect it’s the cold flow rating (the one before the W) that matters in this regard.
My memory may be faulty. Happy to stand corrected if it is.
The OP must be rolling his eyes by now if he hasn’t given up. The fail-safe option, as ever, is to follow the guidance in the manual.
I 'd have to disagree with John-M About his piece on 20/50 oils, i was back in the day a VW Gti enthusiast owned quite a few and rebuilt a few 1.6’s and 1.8’s , and i Ran the local GTI club in Ulster, these cars lived hard , i hillclimbed a lightweight mk2.8v 1.9. with about 160 brake, always used 20/50 any good oil with a oil cooler, oil temp and pressure line fed guages and hydraulic tappets, no issues with tappets with what now is considered a heavy grade what must be remembered that in the 70’s, 80’s and early 90’s VW and other companies with world wide manufacturing were sourcing engines and other machined parts from all over the world shop, Brazil for example did most on the late 80’s and early 90’s VW 1.8 units used in golfs passats etc etc and boy could you tell the difference the machining wasn’t to the same tolerances nor was the steel… and guys back in the day were starting to use expensive full synthetic stuff on engines that didn’t need such fine tolerances, both 1.6 and 1.8’s were hardy engines just very dirty, fumes and crankcase dirt often blocked the emission pipes, much like our early mx5 kit designed for 323’s and changed from FWD to a RWD set up , hardy units yes but suffering as i found lately with pistons that if left standing for some time gum up the oil control rings even at low mileages causing the white grey smoke like a military camaflage smoke shell, mine did1.6 auto na , even with 280 kms, beautiful bores very little piston slap evident if any but every bloody oil ring seized solid, so be careful of any engine thats for sale, i didn’t want to do a rebuild but i was forced into it even the engine with 70k i bought had the same issue… so any engine you purchase should have a sump off , pull the rods and check your pistons… will…
I don’t think too hard about it; I used the Mazda OEM oil and filter from MX-5 parts. Also from MX5PARTS you can buy a tool which makes removal of the old filter very easy. They also sell the aluminium sump washers but I buy in bulk from eBay - the size is 20 mm o/d, 14 mm i/d. You also need an 8mm hex key to undo the sump plug. I find it easier to use an 8mm hex bit in my 1/2 inch drive. I can imagine it matters too much but I prefer to use the OEM oil and filter.
sorry about that 
) the higher the number the higher the viscosity