I’ve had my sights set on a Mk3 2.0l Sport now for god knows how long, but as I just can’t afford it at the moment, I’ve been looking at getting something that’s cheap and more fun to drive than my Corsa. [:P] It needs to be cheap as I hopefully wouldn’t be keeping it longer than I need to, just until I’ve saved enough for a Mk3.
The Mk1 is the obvious choice, plus it looks amazing[:D] Not fussed on the Mk2 at all really, loses the retro styling of the Mk1 so I’d just be thinking about how it’s just a lesser car than the Mk3. Plus a decent Mk2 is out of my price range.
I’ve been told that £2k will buy a good Mk1…But I haven’t found any yet (Autotrader/eBay/Pistonheads). But I’m thinking maybe I’m setting my sights to high? What sort of mileage would be considered ‘low mileage’ for an old car like that? I understand these cars are very reliable but I can’t help be cautious of spending £2000 on a car with 90k+ miles on it… [:s]
Second of all, nearly all of the cars I’ve found in the price bracket are 1.6’s, with the only 1.8’s having comparitively higher mileage. Nearly all of the reviews I’ve read have stated that the 1.6 is more of a ‘wind in the hair’ car rather than a true sports car, and for that you need to buy the 1.8… I’m not sure that’s true, I’d appreciate some of your opinions on that. I won’t be able to test drive anything until atleast the end of next week so it’d be good to hear some opinions before I drive anything.
I’m not too bothered by the engine size, because as I said I’m hoping to upgrade to a 2.0 Mk3 at some point, so I’m thinking a 1.6 will be great to learn how the car handles before getting the more powerful Mk3. But then whenever I think 1.6 I feel really disapointed, I’d much prefer the 1.8 (even though my insurance company could only give me a quote on the 1.6, as they had never heard of the 1.8 Mx-5…)
Is it expecting too much to find a Mk1 for <£2k, especially a 1.8? I don’t really want to spend more than this on such an old car.
Don’t let mileage bother you too much - keep in mind that low mileage can easily be a lot worse than high mileage - just look for evidence that it has been looked after (reciepts are a good indicator).
I understand what you mean about the 1.6, although a lot of people will tell you otherwise. Test drive both, and see what you think - there is no point in buying a car if you are not totally happy with it.
Insurance tends to be pretty similar between a 1.6 and 1.8, so you shouldn’t need to worry there - but imports can be an issue if you are young or have a number of convictions. As always, make sure you can get a good quote before you commit.
If you are prepared to travel, there are a few on autotrader just now - this one jumps out at me
Biggest load of tosh I’ve heard for many a long year. The 1.6 is a lot more rev happy than the 1.8 and any small advantage it, the 1.8, may have in BHP is lost in the extra weight[:^)]
I’ve had my Mk1 Roadster for 9 years now and have never felt it to be a poor relation of a 1.8
I agree with Geoff, I have a 1.6 & have driven a 1.8. Very little diferance IMO.
2K should buy you an excellent condition MK1 right now probably with a hardtop which you could sell straight away for at least £300 - £400 if you didnt want it.
I found when looking that imports seemed to be in better condition due to not having been driven on our salted roads but there are plenty of good UK cars about too.Imports also tend to come with a better spec if you like your electric windows, power steering, air con, ABS, leather seats etc etc. The differance insuring the two is peanuts unless you are very young but be aware some insurers don`t cover imports so you would need to shop around. Plenty of recommended insurers on the forums.
If you read the thread below Paul & Katie are selling a nice car well within your budget.
As a current owner of a 1.8, and previously 3 1.6s, I’d say go for a 1.6, preferably a recent import. I think the 1.6 (especially 1991-1993) is a better engine. A lot of imports came in before 2000, so arguments for them having less rust are now getting less strong… Post-1995 Mk1s were gutted by bean-counters; cheap carpet, poorly wearing seat coverings, suspect paint quality/corrosion protection, cheapened engine bay detailing. 1.8s might have better brakes, but thats not to say 1.6 brakes are inadequate.
For me, the ace model to go for would be a 1991-1992 Eunos Roadster S-Special or S-Package (or limited editions based on this); these have the fixed crankshaft, revised power windows, rear subframe brace, but they are slightly lighter than 1993 build 1.6s, which incorporated beefed up door bars (which were intended to work with the 1.8 cockpit brace). A front subframe brace,as fitted to the 1.8, is cheap to add (£20 or so from one of the many aftermarket suppliers). The Bilstein suspension set up, in unmodified form, is hugely underrated.
I suppose though, the only post-1995 addition I’d make to these cars would be to fit the 1995+ radio surround; it has an enlarged radio surrounding, that allows a standard radio to not look like a diy bodge job. Having said that, I was very interested in the Norwegian contribution; someone who had “Europeanised” properly a MSSS sound system (even correct display).
Big shock to the system not having power steering though, but all part of the fun I guess. I think] the one i drove was an Eunos, i noticed when I got out the logo on the bonnet wasn’t the usual Mazda logo. The car was in MPH though, so I’m not sure. Problem is, being a young driver I’m going to get raped on insurance on an import. I haven’t got quoted on an import yet, but from what I’ve read it seems that’ll be the case.
Quick question, do all Mk1s have the indicator/wiper stalks the wrong way around?[:P] Every car I’ve driven has always had indicators on the left and wipers on the right, felt like a right tit trying to indicate to leave the garage and ending up with the wipers on full blast and trying to figure out what I’d done wrong…[:p] Could this be a sign it’s an import or is that just standard?
I’m going to test drive an early 1.6 to see how it compares, this car didn’t seem to have as much shove as the Mk3 I tried, but it felt…sportier.Definatly lower, and the exhaust sounded better, overall was pretty happy with it. And those mini-door handles are the coolest thing ever after the pop-up lights[:d]
Oh, another quick question, is it normal that to start the car you have to hold up a little metal keyring thing against the dash? Or is it an aftermarket thing? Obviously still had to use the key aswell, but without the keyring the car wouldn’t start. I didn’t know this, and neither did the salesman apparantly as when he went to fetch the car he sat in it for a good few minutes trying to start it. Not knowing about that weird keyring thing, I wasn’t impressed lol, but after someone told him about it, the car started first time.
Very happy with the car though, cheap isnurance, from the short drive I had it seemed a really fun car, and I love the way it looks. Couldn’t believe how easy it was to get into a comfortable driving position too, and it was very easy to drive. What a car[:D]
All imports (which the one you tried obviously was) have indicators/wipers that way round. The little metal keyring is for the aftermarket immobiliser - you will need one to get insurance.
In Mk1s I really prefer the 1.6 - revvy fun engine and a more involving drive, more go-karty. Certainly you will find any Mk1 or 2 has less shove than the 2.0l Mk3, but what you lose in power you gain in character!
J2-Limited (which was yellow with a black screen surround) had power steering. The 1994 California though I think didn’t, as it was based on the basic 1.8i (it had a yellow screen surround). Mazda badge on these Californias was the toilet seat version (aka eternal flame), so different from present Mazdas. The Roadster versiojn was based on the S-Package, but had the UK-style seats fitted (ie. adjustable headrests). If an import, with yellow windscreen surround, and fixed headrest seats, suspect a respray. Additionally, in Japan, there was a 1991 1.6 yellow model, with normal seats, and a yellow windscreen surround. Its not uncommon for the DVLA to mess up on the registration plate. Mk1 1.6 engines have recessed lettering on the camcover, 1.8s; raised lettering. With the Mk2, all became recessed lettering.
All rhd MX5s, import or not, have the the indicators/light switch on the same way; actually traditionally the correct way for a rhd car. LHD cars are reversed.
Is there any easy way to tell if a car is an import or not? I’ve seen several good looking Mk1s on autotrader but they don’t all say whether they’re an import or not… From what I’ve seen they all have the weird, older Mazda badge, and if they all have their indicator stalks ‘the wrong way around’ then how else can I tell?
Of course there are always exceptions as some inports may have changed the rear panel & number plate following accident damage or just because they prefered the look.
I think the most obvious visual difference is that the Eunos imports almost always have a square rear number plate and UK supplied 5’s have the usual oblong one. This is not completely foolproof as a minority of Eunos owners have changed the rear panel.
A small
rectangular rear number plate - usually has 2 lines of text.
Rear Fog lamp is
usually off-set to the right hand side and hangs below the lip of the
rear spoiler.
Speedo is marked
in KPH if it has not been changed. 0-180 km/h.
Distance
traveled is in Kilometers.
The oil pressure
gauge reads kg/cm3
All Roadsters
have the boot/trunk mounted brake/stop lamp
Most have Air
Con. fitted.
Large
Radio (usually Panasonic), without a converter unit fitted will not
pick up British Frequencies.
With the re-tuner, the radio won't display the correct frequency.
Radio Antenna
may be on the L/H rear wing instead of the R/H side as with all GB
Mk.1 MX-5's.
Eunos has a
lower price but higher insurance.
Headlights do
not have CE markings. Replace them with 7" Sealed Beam Lights.
Tyres do not
have CE markings. - Replace for MOT.
None or very
little Service History.
No 'HPI' type
checks available.
Glove-box Owners
Manual in Japanese ?
Soft-Top operation
instructions are in Japanese (On Sun-visor)
May have
Roll/Style Bars.
Some cars have
engine / ECU modifications
Large non
standard Exhaust systems is sometimes fitted
Body Kits and
Spoilers are sometimes fitted
RED side
reflectors (UK '5 are normally amber)
Round front
badge with a diamond shaped design
Half diamond
shape logo on Wheel center's
May have a
temperature sensor on CAT
Could
still have a Japanese Ministry of Transportation inspection sticker in
the front windscreen.
If the car is an
import then the first British MOT should have the cars chassis number
as the Vehicle's ID number.
NA6CE-100021 = First
Eunos Roadster VIN Number.
Mk 2 Roadsters
have a similar back to European market MX5s, except on the European
cars, the off-side reverse light has been converted to a fog light.
No Rear Fog
Light unless added for UK MoT test.
What was
the first UK MX-5 chassis number ? JMZNA18B200100001
JMZ = Mazda Motor Corp. (originally imported as UK specification)
NA = MX-5
1 = R/W Drive
8 = 2 Door Convertible
B = 1.6 / P = 1.8 (Engine Size)
2 = 5 Speed ( Transmission Type)
0 = N/A
0 or 1 = 0 - Hiroshima Plant ... 1 = Hofu Plant
###### - sequence number
What
was the first Japanese Eunos Roadster chassis number ? NA6CE-100021
First 1.8i Roadster =
NA8C-100016
First J Limited = NA6CE-150211
First S Special = NA6CE-209203
First MK1. Series II = NA8C-400007
Japan VIN’s
decoded
NA6CE-100021
NA6 or NA8 = NA6 -
1.6 Roadster or NA8 - 1.8 Roadster
0 or 1 = 0 - Hiroshima Plant … 1 = Hofu Plant
… 91-93 show 0 or 1 and 90 and 93-on are 0
###### - sequence number
check the factory USA Mazda database with your VIN
number on 800-222-5500 (USA Only)
What size engine
is in my car ? If the cam cover has sunken lettering then it is a 1.6 engine, if the
lettering is raised then it is a 1.8 engine. also check the engine number.
If it starts B6###### it's a 1.6 engine
and if it starts BP###### then it's a 1.8 engine.
Eunos Roadster - if VIN starts NA6CE = 1.6i or NA8C = 1.8i
