Accessory Socket

Technical Area Electrics & ICE
2

Have read on the forum that it may not be a good idea to hard wire devices through the fuse box in case the car warranty is compromised.

Instead of hard wiring I intend to use a “two way splitter”(15A rated) in my 12V cigarette socket to connect my Sat Nav (5V; 1.2A) and my Dash Cam (5V; 1.5A).

I have looked up the ND User Manual and see that the fuse box located in the left hand side footwell (passenger side of RHD) houses a 15A fuse description “F.OUTLET” protecting the “Accessory sockets”

I realise that I maybe am stupid here, but I like a spade to be called a spade and am thrown by the fuse description (“F.OUTLET”) and protected component (“Accessory sockets”.)

 Am I right to believe that the 15A “F.OUTLET” / “Accessory sockets” fuse is in fact the 12 V cigarette lighter socket?

It would give me confidence that the 15A rated 2 way splitter is well up to the job if I am right in my belief.

3

I don’t see a problem with that, in fact several members do this IIRC. The current rating may be increased slightly, due to the current loss in drop-down voltage supplies, but nothing to worry about. I don’t have an ND, so can’t confirm the description on the fuse or the diagram, but if there’s only one socket then it must be the cig. lighter.

4

Yes there is only one 12V accessory socket (cigarette lighter socket), but that is part of the reason I an thrown, because it says “sockets” (plural" and goodness knows what an “F.OUTLET” is!!

5

I’d guess it stands for Front Outlet (power outlet) they are no longer cigarette lighter sockets, just power outlets.

6

It’s the delays that throw you, you wait ages for a post to appear, so you click again - and again. infuriating I know, a bit like Nick D said on the Fiat thread! (been there - learned the lesson!) Click POST once, and wait!

1 Like
7

These things work well. https://www.beal.org.uk/index.php?search%5Bkeywords%5D=Add-A-Cicuit&_a=category

Technically, you’re not hard wiring but piggy backing off a fuse line.

The original circuit is still protected by it’s own fuse, as well as the new circuit also having it’s own fuse.

8

You could test the socket  by plugging something in and then remove the fuse. If the something stops working then that is the fuse that protects the socket.

9

Good idea Mad Malc.

Keat63, if I plug in my two way splitter adapter (when it arrives) will it be “piggy backing” off an existing fuse line.
To put it another way, when the “add-a circuit” lead piggy backs an existing fuse line does it just split the fuse line or add a new and extra fuse line?

10

No - it doesn’t ‘split’ the fuse line,and if the one you ordered has it’s own fuse then the devices you plug in are protected by that fuse first, and the whole circuit by the fuse already in the car. That depends on the fuse in the plug-in splitter, if it’s lower rated than the  car fuse, then you will have adequate protection,but if it’s the same size as the outlet fuse then both could blow at the same time. You don’t need to worry about it, just do it!

 

11

OK.

So I have two in line 15 Amp fuses (the original 15A socket fuse and the 15A two way splitter fuse).

With my Sat Nav and Dash Cam plugged into the two way splitter adapter I have two more fuses after those again. A 2 amp in my Sat Nav plug and another 2 amp in my Dash Cam plug.

Very conFUSING!!

Still I know that there should be no problems overloading or overheating the adapter or original power outlet circuit.

12

I would reduce the value of the splitter fuse to either a 5 or 7.5 fuse.If the 2 way adapter ever develops a short,it is more likely for the cable to burn rather than the 15a fuse blow.

13

OK Must do. Thanks for the advice

14

When you talk about adaptor, I assume that this is one of those things you plug in to the aux socket ?

The advantage with these is that they are of course portable and easy to remove, however, it would drive me insane seeing the wires (unless of course it’s hidden in the glove box or somewhere)

The advantage with the ‘Add A Circuit’ is it’s hidden away.

 

You remove the original fuse and install the piggy back in it’s place.

The piggy back has 2 x fuse holes.

1 fuse hole for the original fuse/circuit, and another fuse hole for the new fuse/circuit.

Each fuse works independently.

 

I’ve fitted one of these in my MX5 to run a 12v to 5v Step down so I can run a USB Hub.

And I’ve also fitted two in my daily to run a dash cam which needs a permanent and switched live.

 

They really do work well.

 

15

The male plug in part of my adapter is integral with the two female sockets and is at a slight angle to the female sockets.

In the Mk4 ND the aux socket is located in the passenger side footwell.

The adapter pugs into the aux socket in the footwell and with the slightly angular shape of the adapter it can be positioned to closely follow the profile of the underside of the dash in the footwell.

The adapter is out of view and well clear of passengers feet. The wiring is hidden behind footwell components and continues its run in the same route as it would had it been hard wired through the passenger footwell fusebox.

Everything is out of view right up to the dash cam

16

 

Just the way I’ve done it in mine, and in no way does it jeopardise the warranty, as installing piggy-backs in the fuse box COULD do, Mazda UK’s words when I asked their advice.

17

As an auto electrician The sight of those piggy back fuse holders scare the crap out of me
Let me explain
If the existing fuse in the fuse box is a 15 amp then the wiring inside the fuse box is designed for just that it’s not designed to have another 15 amps drawn off it aswell I have in the last 2 years replaced 4 vehicle fuse boxes because they have been overloaded by those bloody things
Most new cars the fuse box is part of the body controller and costs a small fortune so don’t use them please

18

A bit concerned to read that gandolfstwin.
I agree with Keat63 that it is better avoid unsightly cable runs.
My wife has a car where the aux socket is located just below the armrest located between the front seats. If we tried to hide the cable it would take more than the 4 meter length of the dash cam power lead to reach a dash cam located near the rear view mirror.
I had planned to use a hard wire kit with the piggy back fitting, but now I am not so sure.
Might just mean I have to forget about using the dash cam in her Mk3 Leon.
Well done VW

19

If you are just running a dash cam by all means use a piggy back fuse but to be on the safe side use the cig lighter socket but fit 2x7.5 amp fuses these will be more than enough to run your cam but not overload the fuse box or wiring to the socket

20

Thanks for the clarification “gandlofstwin”.
I see that “missfire” in his post 2 days ago advised me likewise, and recommended that I replace my splitter adapter 15A fuse with a 7.5A fuse.