Can anyone tell me why you have to jump the terminals as shown in the article, also, i take it the jump wire is removed after the timing is altered?
is there anything else i should do / consider whilst adjusting the timing that is not shown in the article by dr bob. Any help / advice would be great.
You have to jump the terminals in order to maintain a steady idle…without this steady idle then you cannot read the timing mark accurately enough (even with an induction gun)
There is little to no point in adjusting the 1.8, the 1.6 benefits a lot.
The terminals are “jumped” to put the ECU into its base setting. The idle speed & timing are not being controlled by the ECU with TEN & GND bridged. Remove the wire when you’re done.
I wouldn’t know to be honest, do some reading and make your own mind up. No harm in doing to see for yourself. If you do plase post your opinions here. I think Project Merlot is set to 14 deg.
The effect on a 1.6 is to move the power delivery further up the rev band, some people say that the engine seems revier, is that a word? Mine used to be at 12 and it felt fine
I thought it moved the power to lower down the rev range, not up it?
I had mine set to 14 after the rebuild and having reset it to 10 it certainly feels less muscular at lower revs than it did at 14, so much so that I’m going to put it back to 14 as it felt nicer to drive as it would pull better lower in the rev range.
I’ve finally got around to advancing the timing to 14 degrees on my mk1 1.8. After taking it for a test drive after, the result is the engine doesnt seem to ‘judder’ as much when changing up through the gears. The ride seems a lot more smoother, it seems livlier and picks the revs up a lot smoother between gear changes
granted the difference is not huge, but certainly feels a lot smoother than it was previously. mind you, before i adjusted it, the timing was fluctuating around the 8 & 10 mark.