Hi, I think I have a slow gasĀ leak from the bottom of the receiver dryer ( Mazda part number GS3L-61-500 )Ā on my MK3.5, it seems to need a re gas about once a year.
It has some florescent die in the system and the bottom of the receiver dryer has a greenish glow when a ultra violet light is shone on it.
Having looked at the parts diagrams it seems there is aĀ coupling at the bottom of this and Iām guessing this is leaking. Can someone tell me if Iām correct in my thinking and if so what type of coupling this is and can I undo it and reseal it ( fit new O ring or whatever it needs )? Also it looks as though this could be done by only removing the engine undertray, can someone confirm this is the case.
In a stunning display of ineptitude I managed to put a trolley jack through the radiator and aircon condenser on my wifeās mk 3.5
I replaced the components myself. My recollection was that the replacement condenser included a drier - and that on both the old and the new condenser the drier was hard-fixed, both in terms of physical attachment to the condenser, as well as the pipes.
You will need to go in from the underside. I had the bumper off due to the radiator shenanigans, but the Mellens PDF suggests that the under tray and splash shields should suffice.
I am unsure about the legalities of releasing the refrigerant to the atmosphere, or the potential harm that might become you from breathing it. You will need to find a local expert to pressure/vacuum test the system prior to recharge, so perhaps they could drain the system for you prior to removal?Ā
Yes you need to remove the undertray and even on a two post lift it takes 10 minutes.
There are 5 off these specific āOā rings on the air con system and one of them is at that joint.
Mazda parts number NE51-61-J17 for one āOā ring. I would buy two. From the UK parts system.
It may well be if you are going to an aircon specialist to get it done that they have the āOā rings in stock from a big pack of air con āOā rings.
The parts number you quote for the tank appears to be from the US parts list.
Ā
Get say 6 plastic plugs to put the undercover back on as they crack very easily.
Thanks for the reply jingars. A friend of mine is a automotive AC engineer so I will get him to fully evacuate the system before I do anything. I agree, if you look on the likes of MX5 parts the condenser and receiver dryer come as one unit but on an American site I saw the receiver dryer was available as a separate unit. As there seems to be a leak I assumed there must be some kind of joint. Was hoping one of the gurus on here that regularly have the undertray off might be able to confirm one way or the other. Thanks again Dave
Thanks Eddie, I must have been writing my previous reply when you posted the above.
As I said above a friend of mine is a AC engineer and has boxes of O rings and the like. I just wanted to be sure it was worth taking the undertray off before I took it over to him. I think it will take me more than 10 mins to get the undertray off for the first time though ?? on my mk1 no problem but Iāve never tried on my mk3 yet.
Thanks again
Dave
Thanks again. Makes you wonder what goes wrong with them to warrant an aftermarket unit. I can only guess they spring a leak, which puts my simple replace an O ring into question. Oh well Iāll have to get the undertray off and go from there.
Yes, the normal refill is a vacuum test and a fill. It is better to pressure test with the fluorescent gas to find where the leak is but you have got your friend sorted for that.
Hi all, hereās an update and hopefully close the thread with nothing left open. ( I hate it when people donāt follow up )
I took my car to my friendly automotive AC engineer and had him remove any gas still in the system, though it was pretty much empty. I bought two new O rings from my local Mazda dealer. Ā£6 each so not cheap but at least I knew they were the correct ones. I removed the under tray following Drumtochtyās excellent guide in another thread ( thanks again Eddie ). This turned out not to be as painful as I had expected, took me about 45 minutes. The condenser and receiver dryer were then easily accessible. The receiver dryer was relatively easy to remove, the two pipes at the bottom needed a bit of persuasion, but I think this was due to the corrosion that was the root of my problem. Having removed the unit I cleaned both the pipes and the corresponding holes they fit into. They didnāt seem too bad but the white powder of aluminium oxide was visible. Once everything was cleaned it was reassembled with the new O rings. It was nice to feel that the pipes slid smoothly into the receiver with no resistance unlike when I removed them. Back to my friendly AC guy for a full pressure test. After one hour on test no leaks found. Happy days. System vacuumed down and filled with no problems.
So, if you are still awake, here are a couple of thoughts and observations. The receiver/dryer is considered a service item and should be replaced if any major part of the AC system is replace i.e. compressor or condenser. This would explain why when you buy a new condenser it comes with a new receiver/dryer. The purpose of this unit is to remove moisture from the system ( it contains a desiccant ) and also a particulate filter. Even if you are not replacing a major item, if the system is left open to the atmosphere for any length of time, this should be replaced as it will become contaminated. I was lucky and only broke two of the plastic trim clips. I had bought some spares just in cast. I noticed that having removed the clips the four prongs remained splayed apart which would have made putting them back a bit tricky. I discovered that if I removed the centre screw part and put them in an old mug and poured boiling water in and left them for a bit, they reverted to being straight and the same shape as the new replacements I had purchased, making reassembly easier. As my car is now 8 years old and has spent itās life " down south " and in my ownership for the last 5 years has very rarely been driven in the wet and certainly not when the roads may have been salted, Iām surprised that this problem has never happened to anyone else here. Just unlucky I guess.
Anyway all resolved for Ā£12 on O rings, and Ā£40 for pressure testing, vacuuming and regassing. Not a bad result if you ask me.
Well done Dave! - when I read this thread for the first time was hoping it was not the MK1 1.8 we had dealings over with the problematic aircon pump - glad to see it is not although mk3.5 should be free of problems at relatively young age.
I think aircon requires regular use to protect the basics. Seals need fluid movement, pumps need actuating once in a while, etc. Pleased to hear that you have appeared to recondition your failing aircon and identified the problem easily.Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā
You have a minor leak that will eventually deplete the refrigerant and reduce aircon pressure, so will need sorting. From the look of it probably only a seal at that pipe union but take the opportunity to replace all servicable seals as system will need to be evacuated and recharged.
The green goo is the dye that is included with a recharge that gives away any leak.
If you feel comfortable with discharging and recharging your aircon then I would say have a go yourself. Just arm yourself with a set of seals as a failure of one as in this case would indicate that others may be vulnerable. No point in replacing just the one, adding pressure to the system only for others in a similar condition to let go.
If the aircon is still effective I would be tempted to leave for a month or two.Ā Ā Ā Ā Ā
Hi kwickfix, that green stuff shows there is a leak there, itās what I had at the bottom of my receiver drier. If you shine a ultra violate light on it it should glow. If your AC is working Iād clean everything off and keep an eye on it, it may be a historic leak that has now stopped. To be honest I doubt it though. It should be an easy DIY fix but you need to get any gas thatās left in the system removed first by someone with the correct kit. After that undo and remove the bolt, pull the pipe out, clean both parts of the joint to remove any corrosion ( itās aluminium oxide so looks like a white powder ), then reassemble. put some AC oil on the O ring ( PAG oil ) so it slides in smoothly ( no comments please ??) I used new O rings but Iām not convinced they really needed replacing. I wouldnāt use a DIY refill kit personally, high pressure gas is dangerous and how do you know you are putting the correct amount in. As regards driving with the undertray removed, I wouldnāt recommend it, but thatās just my feeling, not based on any facts. if a stone gets thrown up you could puncture the condenser or rad, making things much worse, may overheat as well. Ā I drove mine to and from my AC friend but that was only half a mile. Good luck Dave
I will finish the Lighting Modās first then take a closer look at the A/C. I could do with getting a bag of the plastic trim screw/rivets for the liners & trays anyway as some are broken.Ā I can take the car off the road for a while until fixed.
Is there a repair kit with all of the āOā Rings, or do you need to identify and replace them all individually ?
Iām pretty sure all the O rings are the same.
Mazda part number NE51-61-J17 There are 5 in the system I think, but would have to check that. Iāll look later when I get home.
Ā£6 each from Mazda. Iām sure you could get them cheaper but to be honest I couldnāt be arsed.
D
Just a kind of afterthought. Have you looked at the bottom of the receiver drier for any green staining? As per my post above it seems strange Iām the only person who has suffered from this.
Okay, Iāve got home and checked the parts list. Sadly life is never simple.
Below is a list of the O rings in the AC system of a MK3. Iāve used the Mazda part names.
Ring, āOā-NO.1 NE51-61-J17 There are 5 of these and they are the ones at the front of the condenser and the ones we have been talking about.
Ring, āOā-NO.2 NE52-61-J17 Only 1 of these This one is part of the heater matrix in the cabin so unlikely to cause problems unless disturbed.
Ring, āOā-NO.3 NE53-61-J17 Two of these. One on the right of the condenser and the other on the compressor. At each end of the same pipe.
Ring, āOā-NO.4 NE54-61-J17 Two of these. One on the compressor and the other as the pipe goes through the bulkhead ( I may be wrong on this one )
Ring, āOā-NO.5 NE55-61-J17 One of these and itās inside the heater matrix.
Yes, I know, I really should get out more.
Relative to the current thread I think all we need to worry about is the ones at the front of the car exposed to the elements.
I think these would be the 5 Ring, āOā-NO.1 NE51-61-J17 and the 1 Ring, āOā-NO.3 NE53-61-J17 at the side of the condenser.
