Does anyone have one of these fitted? Looks much the same as your dave fab/moroso affairs being a welded aluminum tank but at a much cheaper price. I’ve read about header tanks splitting with age and thought for the price it’s worth the insurance.
Any feedback appreciated.
I can’t comment on that particular brand but, there are a few on ebay with different branding.
I bought one last year from kagetradeuk, branded as Skadi.
I saved it in my watchlist then they offered me a reduction in the price. I ordered one frustratingly it can with a mark on the top, I rubbed it down, painted it (wouldn’t expect anything else) with VHT its been fine in use.
On topic:
Roughly how much did you end up paying and how long of a job was it? Looking to replace the plastic one on mine as its looking a bit old (and to be honest the metal just looks better)
Off topic
Your engine bay is immaculate! Possibly a dumb question, but are those chassis bars stock? Mine look similar but don’t have red Mazda logo+text. Also, I notice you don’t have any intake/idk what covering the right strut tower area, did you re-route yours?
Exactly my situation. Wasn’t looking to buy now, watching one and got sent an offer. 
I paid £95 for the tank, I wouldn’t say I’m mechanically minded but, it didn’t take me long to do probably a couple of hours max as whilst the tank was removed I cleaned it underneath and painted the bonnet stay holder black to blend in.
The struts are genuine Mazda with decals added, the intake idk came like that when I’d bought the car.
Thanks for the compliments regarding the engine bay, it’s not difficult to keep it clean once its clean if you get my drift.
Forgive my ignorance, but do you have to drain and/or flush the coolant to do the install?
Mines decently clean, but my car is also a darker blue which hides dirt better, the white doesn’t give you any chance to cheat!
I’ve changed coolant tanks twice. Got the DaveFab one fitted currently. Take the pair of small pipes off the top and block/tape up the spigots, leave the cap on. Unfasten the bolts holding the tank in and lifting up and tilt it to unfasten the bottom larger hose. You should be able to retain the coolant in the tank this method. Prepare with a towel and maybe a container to catch any spills.
You can replenish the new tank with the saved coolant in the old tank, top up with a drop of deironised water.
I drained the tank using a turkey baster, unclipped the hoses on the top left then unbolted the tank, then unclipped the bottom hose keeping it upright.
Take your time, I didn’t loose any fluid from any of the hoses or tank.
Remove the tank, clean underneath (
) refit the new tank and hoses top back up.
Thats pretty much it, make sure you remember to mark or even take a picture of the top hose positions
I only hand a piddly little syringe 
Yes cleaning is a must under there👍
Squeezing the hose clips together can be challenging with a pair of pliers but doable or get a proper hose release tool on the job.
Is there a viewing window on those replacement tanks? If not, do you need to remove the cap to check the coolant level?
There is on mine (DaveFab) but it’s in a rather awkward position to see fully.
Or just buy a new Mazda plastic replacement. The splitting tank stories mostly come from the States/hotter climes than we have here. Saying that, I have the Moroso one. 
Thanks for the info all. I’m only keen to replace it because I had a 5 series with a plastic header tank split on me and leave me in the lurch, and I’d rather it didn’t happen again…
Oh and they look nice
As you possibly already know, on the NC they are not just for “expansion” but are part of the pressurised coolant system.
The issue is that if they split, you will rapidly lose coolant and, given that our temperature gauges are not exactly the most useful gauges ever fitted to an automobile, you would need to be very quick to realise what is happening and turn off the engine before it overheats. Which may well mean a new engine.
Hence why our friends over the pond (and especially in warmer states) are so paranoid about replacing them
Yes exactly. I caught my bmw one in time but even then I’d lost a lot of coolant. Got it trailered to my aunts and luckily the local euro had a tank in stock and plenty of deionised water to get me home. Plastic doesn’t do well with age and heat cycling which is why I shy away from a lot of German stuff where they use it for everything in the cooling system nowadays…
My NC 3.0 is a Sunday/Summer driver. In April 2022, whilst preparing it for the balmy days to come, I noticed the loss of coolant from the reservoir. It was coming from around the moulded pipe fitting underneath. This is (was then) a 40k miles car that has never seen salt and rarely got wet!
A shopping trip with Flyin’ Miata sourced the Moroso ally tank and, as a belt and braces move, Samco Silicone hoses and stainless clips were acquired. Let me say that the finish of the Moroso tank was rather disappointing with traces of machining swarf arount the filler neck. Fitting the tank is a breeze but the hoses are a different story. Allow a long weekend!! The under engine cover, wheel arch liners, filter box, battery tray, ECU pack and other bits have to be removed and then it gets even harder… the heater hoses at the back of the engine are a total nightmare without removing the engine or parts thereof.
Whilst investing with Flyin’ Miata I also bought their Wilwood 4 pot Big Brake kit and fitted it in readiness for the trip to Brodie Britain Racing later in the year. Other minor works included fresh LSD oil and gas struts to replace wire stay.
It looks like the Moroso is the only one where the cap sits in the correct position/orientation.
Exactly, I agree
Here’s a link to the one I fitted:
It’s got a little sight glass on the side and fitted well. It’s been in the car for over a year and the car has been driven hard with no problems.
My engine bay is embarrassingly dirty compared to the others in this thread.
