Any body have experience with this. Is it worth doing ? does it change handling for the better ?
Worked wonders on my Spitfire when I had the diff mounts polybushed. The whole rear end hangs on the diff on those cars, with the spring mounted across the top!
Expensive game on the MX5 though, there are lots of them!
Cheers, not interested in whole suspension dude, just anti roll bars/drop links.
Did the rears on mine and they are fine not much change but then they were ok anyway I just did them because I brought a full set of polly bushes for the car and will change them a few at a time unless I can find someone local to do them 
I’ve got an advisory for play in the front roll bar bush. Is this a relatively easy job?
I did mine very straight forward and certainly tightened the handling. Have been advised to stay with standard bushes for rest of car unless using for Motorsport .
I changed all my bushes on my mk1 to polly, on the negative , the ride was a little more harsh after and less flexible and when I carried something very heavy in the boot, like a tool box, the rear would drop and stay low even after I had emptied it. I would have to remove the rear wheels and readjust the rear wishbones to bring the rear up again. The positives are the car handled better when going over bumps on roundabouts and felt more solid so would have been fab on the track. I Was going to change them back to standard but then I sold it to make way for the mk3.
I tried Anti roll bar POLLY bushes on this one but did not like the harsh ride after and had to deflate the tyres a little to compensate, so I’m back to standard again.
I have finally come to the conclusion that if the mx5’s suspension was that adaptive they would sell these parts as accessories at mazda dealers.
I did mine and it changed from something that was very nervous at speeds near the national limit to a car that is now happy to cruise at well in excess of the limit along the same bumpy dual carriage as previous. Very easy to do too.
I replaced the anti roll-bar bushes on the back of my NC with polybushes a couple of weeks ago. A doddle. Just undid the tops of the drop-links, then undid the clamps and removed it to the side of the car, bushes are split so easy to replace. NB my drop-links have been recently replaced so easy to undo!
Incidentally while doing this I managed to reproduce the “drop-link” noise which I seemed to keep getting even with a new drop link fitted, and in doing so discovered several things
-
Due to the awkward positioning under the car, and the need to hold the drop-link bot with an allen key while tightening-up, I hadn’t been tightening up as much as I thought. 32-43 ft lbs feels surprisingly tight and needs a good heave on the spanner!
-
If not done up to at least the minimum torque then on some bumps the drop-link mount will move in the end of the antirollbar and make the “chink” noise
-
If not done up tight enough they will work loose - so “Chink” again after a few days! I think somehow that the ball joint is very stiff so doesn’t rotate?
-
with a new drop link the joint is stiff enough to be able to tighten up the nuts with a socket without the bolt turning - making use of a torque wrench possible.
-
I had a brand new link get noisy after just a couple of days - tried tightening up and it felt like I had stripped the threads, Turned out that the shoulder on the drop-link bolt wasn’t very robust and just collapsed, so I was tightening it up against the rubber seal!
With all the above I now have the nuts done up more tightly and get fewer rattles, though a few days bouncing along rough lake district lanes is telling me I need to recheck the tightness! I still get a slight chink when both rear wheels drop into the long pothole the width of the car.