Motorcyclists and water treatment plants must love this stuff when it gets washed off onto a wet road.
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Quite. It is some by-product of the rendering of sheep carcasses (hence the smell that someone referred to) so it is a ânaturalâ product. There is a marine version which I have tried on propellers to minimise fouling. It was very thick, smelt awful, was extremely difficult to apply and didnât work as well as the chemical versions. I have no experience of the car version.
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Are you feeling a bit âsheepishâ now Geoff? Wouldnât ewe know it. AND youâre following the herd too! Well flock anyway! 
I guess itâs the sheep of things to come, Iâm obviously trying to ram the point home! You might find some more info on Ewe tube?
Just a couple more for you then Iâm done!
What do you call 100 sheep rolling down a hill?
A lamb-slide
What cars do sheep like to drive?
Lamborghinis!
Sorry mate couldnât resist
Barrie
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OK, you win. The stuff I had smelt like it had come from them though, thatâs for sure!
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Barrie, thatâs mint 
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I looked at this stuff but decided to stick with ACF50.
Personal choice I guess.
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In case you didnt know, BiltHamber is a Lanolin derivative
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They used to make soap out of lanolin, I donât know if they still do.
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Yes, used it on my 2002 Mk 2.5. It is very clean with little to no rust. I want relax and not worry about creeping rust.
I lve in Bangor Down and got a local specialist to do a thorough job. Chassis, cills and cavities.
He was recomended by local MX5 specialist and had a good review from Lanoguard themselves. He claims to have undersealed many "5"s I could not be happier so far.
My car does not appear in the winter so i will get it redone every couple of years.
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I did my mk1 a couple of weeks ago and yes it did what it said on the tin I also used the compressor with a old paint gun as through experience the plastic guns usually fail after a short while of course you use more with the compressor but the out come I would say is better.
What rust treatment did you use ?
Indeed, or go even further, like me, do every insane measure, life revolves around it, beyond comprehension thing to look after it as a âkeeperâ, getting de facto panic attacks if out and even a drop of rain comesâŚfor some reckless, selfish idiot to rear end it whilst on a mobile phone. Then think âyeah, was it really worth it putting those bins in front of the wheels so direct UV donât go on the tyres, or getting up at 3am to check the half cover in rain storms is still secure on car, or tasting the roads for salt after a load of days on rain may have washed it away (and itâs dry again), or planning when you can go out when itâs dry on the roads and no rainâs forecast, or using a âdog dryerâ to remove condo from around the car on cold days when itâs sitting on the drive, or using every advance detailing technique to keep it swirl freeâ etc etc
Can all be worth jack all if some mobile using idiot slams you.
btw, I used some lanoguard on the âbackâ of the NDâs sills earlier this summer. I bought just the 500ml bottle and it was easy enough using it on the floor with a mirror and avoiding the rubber bung plugs which they put in (should put it) during itâs PDF when new (which filled in the âholesâ used when they ship it in). Although with Langaurd itâs apparntly fine on rubber too.
Any of these soft products need an annual top up at least on the parts that are scoured by road debrise
This is something I derusted/ rust treated/painted with rust-inhibiting paint after six months of summer ridingâŚâŚ
All stuff from Hammerite. Long-standing actors. I doubt any of the new boys are significantly better or we would have heard about it.
Itâs still about an annual topup for now
Not very reassuring.
Youâd be quite wrong, there is much better stuff on the market.
Hammerite is outdated rubbish.
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^^^^^^^ maybe. What do reckon does a better job?
My car has been lagged in Lanoguard whereas the brace I posted was finished off with Waxoil. They will both be eroded by hard stuff bouncing of the road. I canât see any solution other than getting the underside lagged in the product of your choice. Critical is you do it regularly. Fit &Forget is not an option here
What does this mean?
The best way is to clean all the loose rust off and give it two coats of Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic. Thatâs likely enough in itself, but a coat of anti stone chip would help even more.
All these spray on things are a bit â â â â really. You have to re-apply them regularly and ask yourself âwhere does it go?â
All over the road and the surrounding environment is the answer.
The latter is bad enough, but it also causes the roads to be more slippery in the wet, not only for cars, but motorbikes too.
Each to their own. Personally, I donât like the idea of sealing in rust. Also epoxy is quite brittle/rigid so it will likely fracture and allow in moisture with the flexing of the car.
The annual top-up of coatings is my personal preference. The idea of the roads slick with Waxoil et al is an interesting thought.
No it isnât âeach to their ownâ.
Itâs âIâve been working on rusty cars all my working life so I know what iâm talking about from decades of experienceâ.
Personally I donât rate Lanoguard at all, itâs been very well marketed but thatâs about it. As mentioned previously much better products on the market.
Bilt Hamber dynax UC and UB are far better if you just want a simple spray on coating but as usual with any preparation is key.
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