Two days of cursing, and my maroon BAS hood (MX5parts) doesn’t fit. This is the 4th hood I’ve fitted, but the first BAS hood. I followed an “on frame” method of installation (Mazmania method, but broadly the same as the first hood I fitted in 2000, from Duetto), because I have a rollbar fitted, and couldn’t face taking the rollbar out to remove the frame.
Hood went on the frame ok, but the fitting on the rainrail studs seems tighter than I remembered from before (last hood fitting as a cheapie SFT hood 10+ years ago). At the moment, there is no way on earth the hood will do up. Any tips on things to look out for, before I tackle this again. Also, the hood is onto to a frame that someone had previously replaced the hood, and bodged one of the tensioning cable rivet points; over drilling it, resulting in me having to use a large self tapper instead; the biggest rivet my riveter can use will be too small for this hole.
Yeah, but I don’t have any rivnuts, nor the tool needed. An idea discussed was to use a little piece of aluminium, drilled for the rivet, place that behind the steel frame and rivet through the tensioning cable and through the aluminium sheet, but the rivet will still be loose in the frame itself.
A Rivnut tool is something in the past I wish I had, but never the excuse to actually get one. A good idea, maybe I’ll revisit later in the year, after the hood is fitted.
I always used BAS hoods when I fitted hoods in Scotland (10 yrs), and don’t agree with fitting on the car. BAS hoods are good quality and a great fit, but it will need at least 2 of you to pull it shut.
As to the tension cable hole. Get the biggest pop-rivet you can use , there is just enough roof to slip a washer on it inside the frame. This will make it hold
Officially given up. I went back and rechecked the b-pillars, redid the bows, checked the stud attachments, ended up back on square 0. Remove the rainrail, and check the holes line up? The studs in the far corners, go through a double layer, and it feels all correct (working blindly, by feel). Ended up same result.The wrinkles suggest its pulling too much in the corners. Warming the vinyl made no difference. Got a 2-3" gap at the clips, despite exerting a lot of force.
Open to suggestion, also open to anyone recommending me someone who can come out on a saturday to LE7 3DH and sort this hood out, for I suppose, the standard labour fee to install a roof.
There is a way of fitting a rivnut without the tool, you need a nut, washer and a screw or bolt the same thread as the rivnut.
Assembled like this.
You fit the rivnut into the hole it’s going in, then holding the screw or bolt (so it doesn’t rotate), screw the nut down. It’ll compress the rivnut into place.
The washer is there as it’s flat so won’t damage the rivnut head, as well as allowing the nut to turn without turning the rivnut.
Hope this helps.
Although the washer behind the rivet is probably the easier option. But it may come in handy one day…
I’d speak to Richard Nicol, he has fitted more of these hoods than he’d care to remember, BAS are great quality, but they do need a good stretch top up for a few days.
I’m getting help, thanks. The BAS hood fitted by Sam Goodwin to my S-Special in 2008 wasn’t as tight as this when new. I’ve had tight tops before (Duetto) but this one is off the scale.
I’m with Richard, plus new tension cables must be fitted with a new skin every time, unsure about this rivet nut thing???as all that is needed is a rivet and gun and their hood skins are supplied with them.
They are great hoods, and the cut is spot on, the guys are spot on to deal with, never had a problem with there hoods, although i fit a roof correct not this leave the frame on the roadster ■■■■ , only because it is a new skin and needs adjustment also on the main 3 x 12mm bolts on each side that hold the main hinge, plus you must take into account at this time of year that the vinyl will be hard to work with.
looking at the pics I really don’t see a problem,that gap is normal for a new skin that as not found it’s memory fix yet, if it did not have a gap to stretch fit i would be really worried, because it would sag in no time and look ■■■■, get 2 people, kick the roadster over, get the heater blowing full on into the cab with the hood up to soften the vinyl,open the adjusters on the latches to full, go for a brew and a chat for 20 minutes while you get some heat up and running ,the longer you heat it up the better and easier it will be, one person in and one out and push, clamp one side down and move to the other side and do the same, now move to the first side and pop the latch and adjust it tighter and latch it down again, keep going back and forth unit you are good with the adjustment, turn off the Roadster, and do not drop that hood until it as gone hot and cold a good few times…a lot… to stretch into it’s memory fix, even worst at this time of year, summer is a shorter time for reasons that are clear.
I just fitted one of the skins this week with no issues on a Mk 2 with HRW, nicest skins i have had the pleasure to fit.
Cannot post pics as you need a third party to add and i don’t use them.
Unsure if this will work…
Iain flemming /Martin Curtis, Ian Mchattie ,Richardn Can up help?
